Analyzing wave breaking in a barred beach using wavelet

In this paper, a cross-shore profile evolution model, Uniform Beach Sediment Transport-Time-Averaged Cross-Shore (UNIBEST-TC), is used. The model was developed at WL/Delft hydraulic laboratory in the Netherlands. The model is used to predict wave height in a barred beach (Egmond site, The Netherlands) and the results show that there is a good agreement between the measured and predicted values by the model. In the present study, Morlet wavelet is used to distinguish the breaking waves; it is integrated over frequency to provide the temporal variation of localized total energy. The study shows that the local peaks of the energy densities correspond to the events of wave breaking in the predicted–wave time series. Furthermore, the wave energy distribution shows a tendency to decrease in the off-shore direction of the inner bar.     

Quantifying the effect of wind on internal wave resonance in Lake Villarrica,Chile

Lake Villarrica, located in south central Chile, has a maximum depth of 167 m and a maximum fetch of about 20 km. The lake is monomictic, with a seasonal thermocline located at a depth of approximately 20 m. Field data show the presence of basin-scale internal waves that are forced by daily winds and affected by Coriolis acceleration. A modal linear and non-linear analysis of internal waves has been used, assuming a two-layer system. The numerical simulations show good agreement with the internal wave field observations. The obtained modes were used to study the energy dissipation within the system, which is necessary to control the amplitude growth. Field data and numerical simulations identify (1) the occurrence of a horizontal mode 1 Kelvin wave, with a period of about a day that coincides with the frequency of daily winds, suggesting that this mode of the Kelvin waves is in a resonant state (subject to damping and controlled by frictional effects in the field) and (2) the presence of higher-frequency internal waves, which are excited by non-linear interactions between basin-scale internal waves. The non-linear simulation indicates that only 10 % of the dissipation rate of the Kelvin wave is because of bottom friction, while the rest 90 % represents the energy that is radiated from the Kelvin wave to other modes. Also, this study shows that modes with periods between 5 and 8 h are excited by non-linear interactions between the fundamental Kelvin wave and horizontal Poincaré-type waves. A laboratory study of the resonant interaction between a periodic forcing and the internal wave field response has also been performed, confirming the resonance for the horizontal mode 1 Kelvin wave.     

Where is the best site for wave energy exploitation? Case study along the coast of northern Latium (ITALY)

The present work proposes a siting process for the detection of a suitable site for wave energy exploitation. The choice of a suitable site is based on the good agreement between energy availability, environmental sustainability, and equipped facilities to exploit wave energy. The case study in the northern Latium coast is explicative because in this area there are several activities that affect marine ecosystems, and the introduction of renewable energies promote the reduction of anthropic pressures. The nearshore wave power is studied through the numerical wave model (CMS-Wave), and available wave buoys along the coast were used to compare numerical results. In correspondence with Civitavecchia harbour, the largest nearshore wave energy was found; the large depth in front of the breakwater allows to conserve a great part of offshore wave power, with an average dissipation rate of 10 % less than offshore, with mean annual available wave energy of 25.4 MWh/m and seasonal fluctuation of 5.4 MWh/m. This area appears to be an optimal site for nearshore and shoreline wave energy device tests and installations, for energy availability (intermediate level respect Mediterreanean Sea), low potential environmental impact, easier accessibility, and policy oriented towards a larger sustainability of harbour activities.     

Impulsive waves caused by subaerial landslides

This paper presents the experimental results of impulsive waves caused by subaerial landslides. A wide range of effective parameters are considered and studied by performing 120 laboratory tests. Considered slide masses are both rigid and deformable. The effects of bed slope angle, water depth, slide impact velocity, geometry, shape and deformation on impulse wave characteristics have been inspected. The impulse wave features such as amplitude, period and also energy conversation are studied. The effects of slide Froude number and deformation on energy conversation from slide into wave are also investigated. Based on laboratory measured data an empirical equation for impulse wave amplitude and period have been presented and successfully verified using available data of previous laboratory works.     

Salt-marsh erosion and restoration in relation to flood protection on the Wadden Sea barrier island Terschelling

This paper explores the impact of erosion and restoration measures on habitat development and on wave damping by a small salt marsh nestled alongside a dike on the Wadden island of Terschelling. The aim is to advance knowledge about the benefits and possible side-effects of salt-marsh restoration. Analysis of a time series of aerial photographs from 1944 to 2010 indicates that the salt marsh decreased steadily in size after maintenance of accretion works was terminated. In the western part of the marsh, which is accessible to sheep, vegetation is low (5–15 cm) and dominated by Salicornia europaea and by Spartina anglica. In the most intensively grazed parts, vegetation is very scarce. The eastern, inaccessible part of the salt marsh is covered by dense patches of the shrubby perennial Atriplex portulacoides and Spartina anglica (15–25 cm in height). SWAN wave models show that wave height at this location is significantly affected by the areal extent of the salt marsh as well as by the vegetation. High or dense vegetation are in the models nearly as effective in damping waves (with an initial height of 0.15 and 0.5 m) as widening the salt-marsh area by 350 m. A low density of low plants, as observed in the grazed part of the marsh, has almost no wave-damping effect. Even under conditions of sea level rise, a broader salt marsh vegetated with high plants significantly affects modelled wave height. Therefore, salt-marsh restoration is an adaptation measure worth exploring, though an array of effect types must be considered.     

Numerical study of wave–current–vegetation interaction in coastal waters

Research on interactions among wave, current, and vegetation has received increasing attention. An explicit depth-averaged hydrodynamic model coupled with a wave spectral model (CMS-wave) was proposed in this study in order to simulate the wave and wave-induced current in coastal waters. The hydrodynamic model was based on the finite volume method while the intercell flux was computed by employing the Harten–Lax–van Leer approximate Riemann solver to investigate the dry-to-wet interface, and the drag force of vegetation was modeled as the sink terms in the momentum equations. The CMS-wave model was used to investigate the non-breaking and the breaking random waves propagation in vegetation fields. Afterwards, an empirical wave energy dissipation term with plant effect was derived to represent the resistance induced by aquatic vegetation in the wave-action balance equation. The established model was calibrated and validated with both the experimental and field data. The results showed that the wave height decreased significantly along the wave propagation direction in the presence of vegetations. The sensitivity analysis for the plant density, the wave height, and the water depth were performed by comparing the numerical results for the wave height attenuation. In addition, wave and wave-induced current through a finite patch of vegetation in the surf zone were investigated as well. The strong radiation stress gradient could be produced due to the variation of the energy dissipation by vegetation effect in the nearshore zone, which impacted the direction and amplitude of the longshore current. The calculated results showed that the coupling model had good performance in predicting wave propagation and the current over vegetated water regions.     

Experimental investigation of cross-shore sandbar volumes

Sandbars are critical to the cross-shore movement of sediment. Prediction of cross-shore sandbar volumes requires knowledge about the functional relationship of sediment transport rate conditions with waves, currents, base slope, sediment property and water depth. In this study, experiments on cross- shore sediment transport were carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial base slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, bar volumes caused by cross-shore sediment transport are investigated for beach materials with the medium diameter of d₅₀?=?0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. A non-dimensional equation for sandbar volume was obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and was compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equation with respect to the previously developed equations.     

Vertical oil dispersion profile under non-breaking regular waves

An experimental program was conducted to investigate vertical oil dispersion of surface oil spills under non-breaking regular waves. The variation in oil concentration caused by oil dispersion in a water column was studied to determine the vertical oil dispersion profile. The experiments were performed using different waves characteristics for different volumes of oil spill to evaluate the variation in oil concentration at three depths at two sampling stations. The correlations between oil concentration and the main parameters of wave characteristics, oil spill volume, sampling depth, and distance of sampling stations to spill location were assessed. The results revealed that the trend of variation in oil concentration versus wave steepness is linear. The results obtained from experimental measurements indicated that the oil concentrations at mid-depth were 44–77 % and the concentrations near the flume bed were 12–33 % of the concentration near the water surface.     

Advanced integral model for groups of interacting round turbulent buoyant jets

An integral model that combines all advantages of Superposition Method (SM), Entrainment Restriction Approach (ERA) and Second Order Approach (SOA) is proposed to predict the mean axial velocity and concentration fields of a group of N interacting vertical round turbulent buoyant jets. SM is successful in predicting the fields of mean axial velocity and mean concentration for a group of N interacting jets or plumes and ERA is advantageous in predicting the above fields for either two or large number (N → ∞) of interacting buoyant jets in the whole range of buoyancy. SOA takes into consideration in a dynamic way the turbulent contribution to the momentum and buoyancy fluxes and provides better accuracy than the usual procedures. A novelty of the proposed model is the production and utilisation of advanced profile distributions, convenient for the mean axial velocities and concentrations in a cross-section of the entire group of buoyant jets. These profiles are developed on the basis of flux conservation of momentum, buoyancy and kinetic energy for the mean motion. They enhance dynamic adaptation of the individual buoyant jet axes to the group centreline. Due to these profile distributions, the present model owns generality of application and better accuracy of predictions compared to usual integral models using simple Gaussian or top-hat profiles; thus it conferred the name Advanced Integral Model (AIM). AIM is herein applied to predict the mean flow properties of two different arrangement types of any number of buoyant jets: (a) linear diffusers and (b) rosette-type risers. Present results are compared to available experimental data and traditional solutions based on Gaussian profiles. Findings may be useful for design purposes and environmental impact assessment.     

Fast Ferry Traffic as a Qualitatively New Forcing Factor of Environmental Processes in Non-Tidal Sea Areas: A Case Study in Tallinn Bay,Baltic Sea

The impact of wake wash from high-speed ferries on the coastal environment in non-tidal seas is analysed in terms of wave energy and power, and properties of the largest waves. Shown is that hydrodynamic loads caused by heavy high-speed traffic may play a decisive role not only in low-energy coasts but also in certain areas with high wind wave activity. For example, ship-generated waves form, at least, about 5–8% from the total wave energy and about 18–35% from the wave power in the coastal areas of Tallinn Bay exposed to dominating winds. The periods of wake waves from high-speed ships frequently are much larger than dominating periods of wind waves. The leading waves typically have a height of about 1 m and a period of 10–15 s. Such waves extremely seldom occur in natural conditions in many regions of semi-enclosed seas. They cause unusually high hydrodynamic loads in the deeper part of the nearshore. The fast ferry traffic thus is a qualitatively new forcing component of vital impact on the local ecosystem. It is demonstrated that wakes from high-speed ferries may trigger considerable changes of the existing balance of coastal processes. Owing to their low decay rates combined with their exceptional compactness after crossing many kilometres of the sea surface, such wakes may cause considerable remote impact of the ship traffic. This feature has to be addressed in the analysis of the impact of harbours and associated ship traffic in the neighbourhood of vulnerable areas.     

Longshore sediment transport in the surf zone based on different formulae: a case study along the central west coast of India

Understanding longshore sediment transport (LST) is a prerequisite for designing an effective coastal zone management strategy. The present study estimates the LST along the central west coast of India based on four bulk LST formulae: (1) the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) formula, (2) the Walton and Bruno formula, (3) the Kamphuis formula and (4) the Komar formula. The Delft3D–wave module is used for estimating nearshore waves with measured directional wave data at a water depth of 9 m as the input parameter. Wave data for the validation of the nearshore wave transformation model is measured using the InterOcean S4DW wave gauge. The model results show that waves approach from the south 90 % of the time in a year and that they generate predominantly northerly longshore currents. Upon comparison with the measured data, the findings show that the estimates based on the Kamphuis formula agree with the field data. A high ratio (~1) of the monthly net and gross transport rates indicates that the LST is dominating in one direction in all months except February and July. The study shows that a slight change in the angle of the wave approach during the Asian summer monsoon period (JJAS) can significantly alter the direction and magnitude of the LST. Inter-annual variations in the LST based on the data for 2009 and 2011 show that the variations in the annual net and gross LST rates in different years are less than 7 %.     

城市化对北京夏季极端高温影响的数值研究

利用一个耦合了城市冠层模式（UCM）的区域数值模拟系统（WRF／NCAR）,引入由LandsatTM提取的京津冀区域30m分辨率下垫面GIS数据集代替美国USGS地表分类数据,对2009年6月24—25日出现在北京地区的一次超过40℃极端高温天气过程进行了高分辨率数值模拟,用以考察WRF／UCM系统对北京“城市热岛”及城市高温天气的模拟效果,并分析了城市化对北京地区城市高温和地表能量平衡的影响及其日变化特征。结果表明：采用精细化下垫面分类数据集后能更好地模拟出主要高温区的分布特征,并能较好再现夜间的“城市热岛”效应。城市化发展对近地层气温的影响主要表现在会促使城区及其下风向近郊区气温的升高,增幅可达0．5～2℃,这与城市热岛及其下游效应有关。城市下垫面的高粗糙度对近地层风速表现出明显的阻挡效应,表现在模拟的10m风场减弱明显。考虑了城市下垫面属性的敏感性试验更好地再现了城区温度的日变化,其模拟的日间最高温度与实际观测值更为接近,也较好地模拟出了城区具有较高最低温度的特征。通过城区与郊区能量平衡过程差异的分析表明,城市化可以显著改变能量平衡中各项所占的比重。地表对近地层大气热量输送过程的变化表明随着城市下垫面的日愈扩大,会显著增强白天地表对大气的向上感热输送,增大城区日间出现高温的可能。夜间,模式反映出地表能量收入来自土壤热通量的向上输送,同样由于城区的潜热通量小,收入的能量仍主要以感热形式加热大气,夜间城区具有较高的最低温度并表现出较强的热岛特征,主要与夜间感热加热的持续相关。     

Physical and numerical modelling of tsunami generation by a moving obstacle at the bottom boundary

This paper presents a study of the waves generated by a solid block landslide moving along a horizontal boundary. The landslide was controlled using a mechanical system in a series of physical experiments, and laser-induced fluorescence measurements resolved both spatial and temporal variations in the free surface elevation. During its constant-velocity motion, the landslide transferred energy into ‘trapped’ offshore-propagating waves within a narrow frequency band. The wave trapping is demonstrated by investigating the wave dispersion characteristics using a two-dimensional Fourier Transform. The first of the trailing waves broke at Froude numbers greater than or equal to 0.625. The parametric dependence of the largest-amplitude waves and the potential energy within the wave field are discussed. The experimental results were compared to the predictions of an incompressible Navier–Stokes solver with and without turbulence models. The numerical model under-predicted the measured wave amplitudes, although it accurately predicted the measured wave phasing. The turbulent model more accurately predicted the shapes of the trailing waves. Both experimental and numerical results confirmed that investigations into wave generation by submerged objects moving at constant velocity should also consider the initial acceleration of the object, as this affects the overall evolution of the wave field. The applicability of the horizontal-boundary results to more realistic field scenarios is discussed.     

Factors limiting distribution and activity patterns of the soldier crab Dotilla myctiroides in Phuket, South Thailand

This study was carried out between January and March 1995 on the intertidal sand flats of Tang Khen Bay, Phuket, South Thailand, where the soldier crab Dotilla myctiroides (H. Milne-Edwards) occurs in densities of up to 120 m⁻². In this bay, long, ribbon-like sand waves (wavelength 40 m, height 0.4 m) are interspersed with shallow pools, running approximately parallel to the shore. During daylight low-tides, exposure of the sand waves is followed 15 to 20 min later by the emergence of the crabs which have been buried under the sediment surface during high tide. Their subsequent burrowing and feeding activity results in the production of large numbers of sand pellets on the sediment surface. Most crabs retreat down their burrows, and some also plug the burrow entrance, prior to being covered by the incoming tide. The crab burrows have a distinct distribution on the sand waves. Burrows are most dense at the top of each sand wave, and a band of unburrowed sediment adjoins the adjacent tidal pools. Crabs are most abundant between mean high-water neap-tide level and mean low-water neap-tide level, where the median particle size of the surface sediment is ∼2 . Measurements of water-table depth below the sand waves and the exposure time of the sediment indicated that, where sediment size is suitable, the main factor controlling crab distribution is the duration of daytime exposure. This observation is in contrast to those of many previous studies, which have suggested that water-table height and sediment drainage are the main factors controlling the distribution of D. myctiroides. Received: 14 January 1998 / Accepted: 6 May 1999     

Diving behavior of immature hawksbills (Eretmochelys imbricata) in a Caribbean cliff-wall habitat

Time-depth recorders were attached to immature hawksbills (Eretmochelys imbricata Linnaeus, 1766) residing at the northwestern cliffs of Mona Island, Puerto Rico. Data on diving profiles obtained from four turtles of 32.0 to 53.4 cm straight carapace length revealed strong similarities in behavioral patterns. During daylight hours, turtles were active an average 8.4 h per day, surfacing 3.6% of the time. Length of foraging dives correlated with turtle size, with mean durations ranging from 8.6 to 14.0 min. Foraging dives, with a mean depth of 4.7 m, were associated with feeding on encrusting sponges. At night, turtles were mostly inactive, surfacing 1.8% of the time and with individual mean submergence intervals of between 30.4 and 37.1 min. From the surfacing behavior of turtles making deep and long dives, it is inferred that dives were aerobic, with the turtles making use of oxygen stores in addition to that of the lung.     

Efficient synthesis of pyrano[2,3-b]pyridine derivatives using microwave or solar energy

Pyranopyridine derivatives are an important class of heterocyclic compounds due to their biological activities such as antitumor and antibacterial. However, conventional procedures for their synthesis produce large amounts of toxic by-products. Therefore, there is a need to develop simple, efficient and environmentally benign procedures. Here, a one-pot multicomponent protocol is designed for the synthesis of pyrano[2,3-b]pyridone derivatives by reaction of equimolar amounts of 6-hydroxy-1,4-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyridines, aryl aldehydes and malononitrile, using both microwave heating and solar thermal energy in aqueous EtOH (50%) in the presence of a catalytic amount of K₂CO₃. The products were obtained in 84–90% yields in 10–20 min by microwave heating, and in 90–96% yields in 2–3 h using solar energy.     

Undular tidal bores: effect of channel constriction and bridge piers

A tidal bore may occur in a macro-tidal estuary when the tidal range exceeds 4.5–6 m and the estuary bathymetry amplifies the tidal wave. Its upstream propagation induces a strong mixing of the estuarine waters. The propagation of undular tidal bores was investigated herein to study the effect of bridge piers on the bore propagation and characteristics. Both the tidal bore profile and the turbulence generated by the bore were recorded. The free-surface undulation profiles exhibited a quasi-periodic shape, and the potential energy of the undulations represented up to 30% of the potential energy of the tidal bore. The presence of the channel constriction had a major impact on the free-surface properties. The undular tidal bore lost nearly one third of its potential energy per surface area as it propagated through the channel constriction. The detailed instantaneous velocity measurements showed a marked effect of the tidal bore passage suggesting the upstream advection of energetic events and vorticity “clouds” behind the bore front in both channel configurations: prismatic and with constriction. The turbulence patches were linked to some secondary motions and the proposed mechanisms were consistent with some field observations in the Daly River tidal bore. The findings emphasise the strong mixing induced by the tidal bore processes, and the impact of bridge structures on the phenomenon.     

Numerical simulation of non-breaking solitary wave run-up using exponential basis functions

A meshless method based on exponential basis functions (EBFs) is developed to simulate the propagation of solitary waves and run-up on the slope. The presented method is a boundary-type meshless method applying the exponential basis functions with complex exponents. The solution of governing equations is considered as a series of these basis functions. Boundary conditions are satisfied through a point-wise collocation approach. Based on the presented EBF meshless method, a new formula is introduced for the maximum run-up height on different slopes, valuable for engineering applications. The results obtained through the numerical method in the prediction of solitary wave propagation and estimation of run-up are verified through the comparison with experimental data. The comparison with 159 experimental data indicates that this new formula is more accurate than the preceding formulas in predicting the maximum run-up of non-breaking solitary waves. Minimum calculation time and convenient performances are the other advantages of this method.     

Analytical model for vertical velocity profiles in flows with submerged shrub-like vegetation

An analytical solution for the vertical profiles of the horizontal velocity of channel flow with submerged shrub-like vegetation is investigated in this paper. At first, a shape function is proposed to fit the diameter change of different types of shrub-like vegetation. Using the momentum theorem and the mixing-length turbulence model, an analytical solution for the vertical profile of the horizontal velocity within the vegetation is obtained. The velocity distribution of the whole column is determined in tandem with the logarithmic velocity profile above the vegetation. The solution is compared with experimental data in excellent agreement. The results show that the flow above the vegetation has a logarithmic velocity profile while the flow within the vegetation is impacted greatly by the shape and density of vegetation. The flows within shrub-like vegetations are non-uniform and vary inversely with the shrub diameter.