Confronting coastal morphodynamics with counter-erosion engineering: the emblematic case of Wissant Bay,Dover Strait

Wissant Bay is a picturesque and highly frequented French coastal resort comprising beaches, dunes, marshes, and bold capes facing the Dover Strait. Situated at the southern approaches to the North Sea, the 8 km-long bay has, arguably, the most rapidly eroding shoreline in metropolitan France. Retreat has largely affected much of the bay shoreline west of Wissant town, with parts of this sector having lost up to 250 m in the last 50 years, whereas a much smaller sector east of the town is a zone of accretion. Various dune, beach and nearshore morphodynamic studies conducted over the last decade have identified chronic sand bleeding from the western sector and longshore transport to the east, within a framework of what appears to be an ongoing shoreline rotation process within a dominant longshore sediment transport cell between the headland of Cape Gris Nez to the west and the bold chalk cliffs of Cape Blanc Nez to the east. Retreat of the narrowing beach-dune barrier poses a threat in the coming years, as there is a likelihood of it being breached by storms. The seawall protecting Wissant town has also been repeatedly damaged since 2000 due to the chronic sand deficit. These changes involve interactions between a nearshore sand bank, a complex macrotidal beach comprising multiple subtidal to intertidal bars and troughs subject to strong longshore sand transport especially during storms, and aeolian dunes. The nearshore bank acts as a dissipater of incident storm wave energy and as a sand source for the multi-barred beaches and dunes, and has been strongly impacted by past massive aggregate extraction. The bank is, in turn, part of a larger system of mobile banks reworked by storms and tidal currents within the framework of a sand circulation system between the eastern English Channel and the southern North Sea. The aim of this work is to confront knowledge acquired on the morphodynamics of the bay with an engineering plan proposed to counter erosion and reestablish shoreline stability. The plan is based essentially on the creation of an ‘equilibrium’ beach profile, capable of withstanding storms, comprising an enlarged upper beach berm, and constructed through beach nourishment from a nearshore source located 20 km east of Wissant Bay. The plan has not been implemented because of cost. Even if it were to be implemented, its efficiency seems very doubtful because the beach profile simulations on which it is based neglect the complex multi-barred morphology and the overwhelming dominant longshore transport over bars during storms. The plan is also geared towards resolving a local problem of erosion that is embedded in the larger and rather complex spatiotemporal morphodynamics and sediment transport mechanisms evoked above. Wissant Bay is emblematic of the problems of erosion facing many communes in France, and elsewhere. The fight against shoreline erosion generally starts with the commonly insurmountable hurdle of fund-raising for costly engineering proposals that are not always based on a clear grasp of the embedded scales of change affecting the coast.     

A very unusual ‘groin’, the MV River Princess,Goa, India and its impacts upon tourism

On June 6, 2000, the Merchant Vessel River Princess – dead weight 114,645 tonnes and 261 m in length, grounded on the beach off the Candolim-Sinquerim coast, Goa, India, spilling some 40 tonnes of oil. In the past 10 years it has settled some 10 m into the sea bed and taken in circa 40,000 tonnes of sand. Until the ‘60’s the Goan economy centered on agriculture and fishing with very low key recreation. Over the last three decades it has become heavily reliant upon recreation, with 13 % of GDP arising from this sector. Nine million cubic metres of littoral drift occurs off this beach per annum, with the longshore current broken by rips into a series of circulating cells. The vessel acts as a massive groin so much so that downdrift, erosion of approximately 5 to 10 m/annum (dependent on the monsoon strength) is occurring at the Taj hotel site. Satellite imagery has shown that some 0.13 km² beach loss has occurred since 2001. Downdrift, the beach is circa 20 m wide compared to updrift areas where it exceeds 100 m. Embryo tombola growth has now commenced between shore and ship. In addition to this, the dune system is now seriously out of equilibrium and sand bags, geotextiles etc. are currently in use to combat dune foot erosion. Questionnaires (n?=?111) showed that 37 % of beach users ranked erosion as the top coastal problem. Sixty seven percent of beach users rated scenery as the most important quality of a beach and due to the grounded ship, >60 % rated the scenery as below average, as well as viewing the ship as a source of danger for swimming purposes.     

Shoreline rotation and response to nourishment of a gravel embayed beach using a low-cost video monitoring technique: San Michele-Sassi Neri,Central Italy

On beaches where natural shoreline variability is significant, beach nourishment is a useful engineering method to augment the dry beach and protect infrastructure and/or unstable cliffs. In this study, a low-cost video monitoring system is used to monitor the shoreline response to a nourishment operation on a dynamic gravel embayed beach in Central Italy. Video-derived shorelines were collected over a 15-month period to measure the evolution of the beach with regards to three specific parameters: the dry beach width, the dry beach area and the beach orientation. Moderate increases in the dry beach width of 3.6 m and 6.7 m across the embayment were observed in response to two different gravel nourishments of approximately 40,000 m³ and 46,000 m³ respectively. The orientation of the beach meanwhile was found to rotate rapidly in the clockwise direction and more gradually in the counter-clockwise direction. Analyses of individual storm events suggest these rapid clockwise rotations are caused by ESE storms, which result in beach retreat particularly at the southern end. The combination of an overall narrow beach width and a clockwise beach orientation is observed to cause a cliff erosion event at a vulnerable point along the embayment.     

Morphological cells in the Ragusa littoral (Sicily, Italy)

Geomorphologic information, topographic maps (dated 1967), aerial photographs (dated 1999 and 2008), and spatial analysis procedures were used to investigate a 90 km long coastal sector in South Sicily (Italy). Information was obtained on coastal erosion/accretion areas, general sediment circulation pattern and littoral cell distribution. Human-made structures and natural headlands constituted important artificial limits dividing littoral in morphological cells. Ports and harbours were observed at Scoglitti, Punta Secca, Marina di Ragusa, Donnalucata and Pozzallo. Most of them worked as “transit” limits which interrupted predominant, eastward directed sedimentary transport, this way generating accretion in updrift (west) side of mentioned structures and erosion in downdrift (east) side. During the 1967–2008 period, about 62,000 m² and 42,000 m² of beach surface were respectively formed updrift of Scoglitti and Donnalucata ports. The construction of Pozzallo port gave rise to the formation of a “convergent” limit which favoured large accretion (94,000 m²) east of port structure. Most important natural structures were observed at Punta Zafaglione, P. Braccetto and Cava d’Aliga. The knowledge of littoral cell distribution acquires a great importance for appropriate management of coastal erosion processes which may be mitigated installing by-passing systems in ports and harbours and carrying out nourishment works in eroding areas, often located downdrift of ports and harbours (when these structures work as transit limits) and in central part of littoral cells (when these structures work as convergent limits).     

Short- and long-term responses of nourishments: Barra-Vagueira coastal stretch,Portugal

Dredged material resulting from deepening and maintenance activities of the Aveiro Harbor inlet channel, northwestern coast of Portugal, has been used to mitigate the erosion trend recorded on nearby beaches (from Barra to Costa Nova Beach) through direct placement of sand by using standard dredge equipment. The disposal activities of dredged material have been undertaken at two main sites: between the south breakwater and the 1st groin of Costa Nova (dumping area 1, DA1) and between the 3rd and the 5th groin of Costa Nova (dumping area 2, DA2).The sand was placed in the nearshore, between the ?2 and ?7 m Chart Datum, CD, contours.In this study, short- and long-term coastal morphologic changes in the sea bottom, in response to several nourishment operations and to the incoming waves, within the dumping area boundaries are investigated based on a data set of hydrographic surveys collected annually, just before and after the nourishments, between 2009 and 2015. Preliminary results describing the main morphologic changes, evolution trends, sediment budget variations, and nourishments performance are discussed using mainly Geographic Information System techniques. Overall, the analysis demonstrates that the short-term losses in the dumping areas (one month of interval) can reach 50% of the nourished volume, revealing a significant movement of the fill material towards offshore. Seasonal variations promoting cross-shore material exchange can also prevail and misrepresent the sediment balances, if the monitoring area is not comprehensive. Furthermore, some bathymetric analysis suggested that longshore transport gradients have moved the fill material from Barra beach to downdrift areas. All the obtained results contribute to the ongoing discussion about the effectiveness of nearshore sand placements especially in context of an energetic environment.     

Coastal dune development and sand drifting management along an artificial shoreline: the case of Dunkirk harbour,northern France

Harbour development along the low-lying coastline of northern France necessitated the construction of a seaport protruding into the sea. The extension of the port of Dunkirk resulted in the creation of an artificial shoreline consisting of a sea dike fronted by a beach, connected to a jetty protecting the seaport access. This study illustrates how harbour infrastructure can give rise to new kinds of aeolian landforms: e.g. the spontaneous initiation of aeolian dunes on a seaport dike resulting in specific dune types. However, this coastal dune development induced unexpected sand invasion of harbour infrastructure. The aim of this study was to test the effectiveness of various types of windbreaks on a dike as a means of limiting sand drift and solving sand invasion problems. Seven experimental fences installed in the eastern part of the dike were monitored over an 11 month period. The experimental fences tested in this study demonstrated their effectiveness on an asphalt coated dike. Over the whole survey period, the most efficient fences were those installed close to a sand source, at the beach-dike limit. These experiments will aid the Port of Dunkirk in building a management plan for its shoreline, which is being designed in order to preserve the diversity of landscapes, and to control sand invasion which necessitates costly sand removal operations.     

Beneficial use of dredged sand for beach nourishment and coastal landform enhancement—the case study of Tróia, Portugal

In the winter of 2006/2007 approximately 200,000 m³ of high quality sand from the dredging of the local marina were placed at the ocean-side beaches in the vicinity of a tourism development in Tróia, Portugal. The beach-quality sediment provided a source of “sand of opportunity” which was used to increase the dry-beach width of the highly used coastal stretch. The sediment was placed along approximately 600 m of shoreline and a monitoring program has since being carried out twice a year. High-resolution topographic surveys and sediment analysis are being conducted to evaluate the performance and response of the fill to the local forcing factors and ultimately to evaluate the effectiveness of the fill project. Two years after the nourishment, the sediment has been distributed both cross-shore and alongshore. The pre-nourishment beach slope was attained and the new shoreline has acquired a natural shape. Berm width increased by a maximum of 100 m, and a set of new dune ridges has developed, due to sand accumulation promoted by the settlement of vegetation. In conclusion, 2 years after its completion, the beach nourishment in Tróia can be viewed as a successful project in which the beneficial use of dredged material resulted in: 1) area for increased dune field growth and development, 2) enhancement of potential shorebird nesting areas and habitat, and 3) increased area for recreation purposes.     

Dynamic preservation of the coastline in the Netherlands

In 1990, the Government and Parliament of the Netherlands decided on a new national policy for coastal defence. To ensure the enduring safety of the low-lying polders as well as the sustainable preservation of the coastal dunes, it was decided to maintain the coastline in its 1990 position. The main method for coastline preservation in the Netherlands is beach nourishment. Since 1991, approximately 7 million m³ of sand is added to the Dutch beaches annually. From an evaluation study of sand nourishment projects it is concluded that nourishment is an effective and efficient method to preserve the coastline. The evaluation study also proves that nourishment projects should be ‘tailor-made’, taking the local morphological and hydraulic conditions into account. The first results of an experimental shoreface nourishment are discussed. The choice for nourishment as the principal method to combat erosion is well in line with the intention to restore the natural dynamics of the dune-coast in the Netherlands. The key probably is a less strict policy with regard to the maintenance of the foredunes. Plans for the development of typical coastal features such as slufters^*, wash-overs, blow-outs and mobile dunes are currently under discussion. A slufter is a breakthrough in the first dune-ridge whereby the sea invades former dune slacks or beach plains situated behind the duneridge. In this way a tidal marsh is formed within the dune zone.     

The value of disappearing beaches: A hedonic pricing model with endogenous beach width

Beach nourishment is a policy used to rebuild eroding beaches with sand dredged from other locations. Previous studies indicate that beach width positively affects coastal property values, but these studies ignore the dynamic features of beaches and the feedback that nourishment has on shoreline retreat. We correct for the resulting attenuation and endogeneity bias in a hedonic property value model by instrumenting for beach width using spatially varying coastal geological features. We find that the beach width coefficient is nearly five times larger than the OLS estimate, suggesting that beach width is a much larger portion of property value than previously thought. We use the empirical results to parameterize a dynamic optimization model of beach nourishment decisions and show that the predicted interval between nourishment projects is closer to what we observe in the data when we use the estimate from the instrumental variables model rather than OLS. As coastal communities adapt to climate change, we find that the long-term net value of coastal residential property can fall by as much as 52% when erosion rate triples and cost of nourishment sand quadruples.     

Morphodynamic responses of nourished beaches in SW Spain

Coastal erosion in SW Spain is affecting man-made structures and beaches that represent an important economic resource in the area. In the last decade the Spanish government carried out several nourishment works that have limited durability. Most of the artificial beach fills consist of a spill of natural dredged sand on the visible beach, leading to a flat, artificial berm with an important seaward slope and narrow foreshore. As a result, the initial dissipative profile was transformed into a fully reflective one. A beach monitoring program was carried out to record morphological evolution after the nourishment works. Several field assessments of disturbance depth were also made to characterize beach morphodynamics of a nourished beach (Rota) and a natural dissipative one (Tres Piedras), whose slope was similar to the pre-nourishment gradient of Rota beach. Natural dissipative beaches were characterized by spilling breakers that did not significantly affect bottom sand. The severe erosion recorded in the nourished zones was related to the new morphodynamic regime acting on these beaches, which was controlled by high erosive plunging breakers associated with high foreshore slopes. In conclusion, other nourishment practices should be used, better adapted to the natural beach morphodynamics of the zone, taking also into account the original grain size and density of the beach sands, in order to obtain more durable artificial beaches.     

Seaward coastal defence: limitations and possibilities

In The Netherlands shoreline retreat is actively counteracted, mostly by means of beach nourishment in which some allowance is made for natural fluctuations. For some parts of the coast, however, a more active socalled ‘seaward coastal defence strategy’ might be more profitable. This applies to coasts with a small dune ridge subject to severe erosion. According to this strategy the morphological system is influenced in such a way that erosion is prevented, which will result in a stable or even an accretion coastline. The effectiveness of the seaward coastal defence strategy has to be compared with maintenance by beach nourishment. The effects on the morphological system, the environment and other interests must also be analysed. Several seaward solutions are possible. In order to gain more insight into the behaviour of these solutions, comparative pilot studies have been executed for the most vulnerable locations. This paper gives an overview of the main conclusions of the pilot studies in comparison with sand nourishment, the main coastal defence measure.     

A conceptual snapsot of a big coastal dune aquifer: Magilligan,Northern Ireland

The Magilligan sand spit dune field is situated on the eastern mouth of Lough Foyle in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland. It is a large triangular-shaped site some 7 km by 4 km by 1.5 km wide (about 800 ha) and maintains areas, particularly in the eastern part, with slacks that regularly flood in winter. The size of the system acts as a buffer to external drivers due to the large volume of groundwater stored, the longer travel distances and lower hydraulic gradients. However, unlike many other coastal dune sites with humid dune slacks in the British Isles the sand is not wholly underlain by silt and clay, as raised beach sand and gravel deposits are in contact with the sand aquifer in some places. A preliminary water balance suggests that the majority of the discharge from the sand aquifer occurs via the underlying raised beach deposits and only a small amount discharges directly from the sand aquifer beneath the foredunes. Available water level monitoring is skewed towards the wetter end of the dune system; no significant short-term water level trends are apparent. The data also indicate that recharge regularly takes place within the sand aquifer interspersed by periods of groundwater level recession.     

Seasonal and diel variation in movement rhythms of sand dollar, Peronella lesueuri (Valenciennes 1841), in Cockburn Sound, Western Australia

Rates and direction of movement in the sand dollar Peronella lesueuri were measured in summer and winter in Cockburn Sound, a large coastal embayment in south-western Australia. P. lesueuri was found to have a diurnal activity pattern throughout the year and had a greater movement rate in the summer (mean of 5.3 cm h^?1, day; 3.9 cm h^?1, night) than in the winter (mean of 2.7 cm h^?1, day; 2.0 cm h^?1, night). Seasonal change in temperature and physiological requirements by the sand dollar are the most likely reason for the seasonal differences. Reasons for diurnal variation were not clear. Direction of movement was found to be random at both times of the year. Based on these movement rates, one sand dollar can bioturbate an approximate area of 0.1 m² day^?1 and 36.4 m² year^?1. At a conservative density estimate of 0.5 sand dollars per m² it takes approximately 20 days for the sand dollars to rework the entire area of the sediments in the habitats they occupy.     

Early development of vegetation in restored dune plant microhabitats on a nourished beach at Ocean City, New Jersey

Topography and vegetation of restored dunes on a developed barrier island were examined after a large-scale beach nourishment project. Restoration began in 1993 using sand-trapping fences andAmmophila breviligulata Fern. plantings. Subsequent growth of dunes was favored by installing new fences and suspending beach raking to accommodate nesting birds. Plant species richness, percent cover of vegetation, and height ofA. breviligulata were sampled in 1999 on seven shore perpendicular transects in six dune microhabitats (backdune, primary crest, mid-foredune, swale, seaward-most fenced ridge, incipient dune on the backbeach). A total of 26 plant taxa were found at all seven sites. Richness and percent cover were greatest in the backdune and crest, especially in locations that predated the 1992 nourishment. Richness was greater where fences enhanced stabilization. Fences initially compensate for time and space and allow vegetation to develop rapidly, but maintenance nourishment is required to protect against wave erosion and ensure long-term viability of habitat. An expanded environmental gradient is an option, where beach nourishment provides space for a species-rich crest and backdune to develop, while the incipient dune remains dynamic. Options where space is restricted include a dynamic, full-sized seaward section of a naturally functioning dune (truncated gradient) or a spatially restricted sampler of a wider natural dune (compressed gradient) maintained using fences. Expanded and truncated gradients may become self-sustaining and provide examples of natural cycles of change. Compressed gradients provide greater species richness and flood protection for the available space, but habitats are vulnerable to erosion, and resident views may be impaired.     

A holistic evaluation of a typical coast nourishment on the Danish West Coast

The case described in this article regards 4.7 km of beach in Ferring, situated approx. 5 km south to the mouth of the Limfjord strait on the west coast of Denmark. In 2005, this section of the beach was nourished with 721,000 m³ of material in order to protect backshore properties, natural heritages and the recreational value of the beach. After the nourishment, the beach was monitored by levelling profiles on four dates to monitor and track the evolution of the nourished material. Furthermore, laboratory tests involving different gradations of nourishment material are shown which indicate solutions to different kinds of coastal protection strategies, estimate the time in between two nourishments and evaluate the cost of maintaining a beach with a high recreational value for the public.     

Inventory and conservation assessment for the management of coastal dunes,Veneto coasts,Italy

Management of coastal dunes on developed coasts could effectively take advantage of comprehensive and multitemporal georeferenced data collection, which offers the possibility to relate dune data with the natural and cultural characteristics of the beach and hinterland. The recent implementation of a coastal management geodatabase for the Veneto region provides the opportunity for improving knowledge on coastal dunes on developed littoral as well as a basis for appropriate future coastal planning in the study area. The geodatabase gathers data concerning different physical, evolutionary and human aspects of the coastal zone, with a special focus on coastal dunes. Established foredunes, human-altered dunes and relict dunes are irregularly distributed along 59 km, 38% of the entire coastal length. Their distribution and characteristics are the result of favourable natural conditions as well as long-lasting tourism exploitation (evaluated through an index of Land Use Pressure) and fragmentary and diversified uses of beaches (evaluated through an index of Tourism Pressure on the beach). At the same time, beach/dune nourishment intervention allowed the presence of artificial or sand fenced dunes along 17 km of coast. High dune elevation up to 8–10 m is promoted by the onshore exposition of the beach to dominant wind (from ENE), by stable-to-slowly negative sedimentary budget or by the re-activation of high relict foredunes in the case of shoreline retreat associated with strong negative budget. Present sedimentary budget (evaluated through the code ASPE – Accretion, Stable, Precarious, Erosive) is the tool used for dividing coasts in sedimentary compartments or cells. Past and present sedimentary budget and different human responses to erosive cases (hard and soft interventions) give the foredunes different means to form, grow, survive and evolve over time. The assessment of Human Impact and Active Management Practices on the dunes allows a first evaluation of the Management Effectiveness, which shows strong shortcomings for 81% of the dunes. The great variability of beach usage, human impact and management practises on the different dune stretches highlight the lack of effective and systematic management actions being correctly scheduled and performed.     

Influence of a botanical pesticide,azadirachtin, on ultimobranchial gland of the freshwater catfish Heteropneustes fossilis

Freshwater catfish, Heteropneustes fossilis, were subjected to 42 mg L^?1 of azadirachtin for short-term exposure (96 h) and to 10.5 mg L^?1 for long-term exposure (28 days). Six fishes were sacrificed on each time interval from control and experimental groups after 24, 48, 72, and 96 h in the short-term exposure and after 7, 14, 21, and 28 days in the long-term experiment. The calcium regulating endocrine gland, viz. the ultimobranchial gland, was fixed for histological studies. Up to 72 h of azadirachtin treatment, there was no histological alteration in the UBG (ultimobranchial gland) of H. fossilis. After 96 h exposure, the ultimobranchial cells stain feebly and the nuclear volume of these cells were slightly decreased. No histological alterations have been observed in the UBG cells up to 14 days following azadirachtin exposure. After 21 days, the cytoplasm of ultimobranchial cells was feebly stained and the nuclear volume exhibits a decrease. The nuclear volume of these cells was further decreased and the gland shows vacuolization and degeneration at certain places after 28 days azadirachtin treatment. Hence, it can be concluded that azadirachtin severely affects the physiology of calcium homeostasis in H. fossilis. Therefore, the botanical pesticides should be used carefully near aquatic reservoirs.     

Impacts of vineyard area dynamics on soil erosion in a Mediterranean catchment (1950-2011)

The Mediterranean basin has undergone widespread land cover change. Urbanization of coastal areas, land abandonment of steeper slopes, and agricultural intensification in alluvial plains are recurrent themes. The objective of this study was to examine how vineyard land cover changes have affected agricultural soil erosion in a 50 year period (1950–2011). The study area covers a 235 km² catchment located near the Gulf of St Tropez. Aerial photographs were used to map land cover in 1950, 1982, 2003 and 2011, and the RUSLE soil erosion model was run to estimate soil erosion.

Between 1950 and 2011, vineyard went from about 2,426 ha to 1,561 ha. Mean soil erosion increased as vineyard slopes became steeper (11.8 T ha^?1, 13.2 T ha^?1, 14.4 T ha^?1 and 13.5 T ha^?1 for 1950, 1982, 2003 and 2011). Total erosion decreased after 1982: 28,621 T y^?1 in 1950, 29,030 T y^?1 in 1982, 22,848 T y^?1 in 2003, and 21,074 T y^?1 in 2011. Total soil loss in 2011 is about 75% of values in 1950–1982, so impacts on water pollution and channel dredging have evolved positively over time.     

Effects of human activities (raking,scraping, off-road vehicles) and natural resource protections on the spatial distribution of beach vegetation and related shoreline features in New Jersey

This study examined the relative impacts of different human activities and natural resource protections on the spatial distribution of beach vegetation and related habitat features (wrack, dune succession) in New Jersey (USA). Field surveys of the 209-km shoreline categorized beach segments according to vegetation cover classes, human activities, protection measures (exclosures, beach management plans, access restrictions) and ownership status (federal, state, etc.). A partition model (classification tree) was used to confirm the relative dominance hierarchy of human actions on the distribution of beach vegetation observed, and quantitative comparisons of dominant activities were conducted using vegetation data collected on 218 transects. The spatial extent of beach vegetation was found to be severely restricted by human activities when unconstrained by resource protections. The greatest reductions were found to result from mechanical raking (?99 %), scraping (?91 %) and all-year recreational ORV use (?86 %), which were dominant on nearly 70 % of the state shoreline. Beaches containing larger areas of vegetation (>5 m) were concentrated in areas with resource protections of various kinds (99 %), and on federal or other public parklands (68 %). Exclosures resulted in the greatest coverage of vegetation (48 % of beach surface) compared to public access restricted areas (41 %), beach management plans (31 %), government-only ORV use (31 %), and off-season recreational ORVs (15 %). Greater protection and recovery of beach vegetation and habitat is needed for species conservation and erosion protection in New Jersey and other coastal environments where these activities occur.