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1.
Research on interactions among wave, current, and vegetation has received increasing attention. An explicit depth-averaged hydrodynamic model coupled with a wave spectral model (CMS-wave) was proposed in this study in order to simulate the wave and wave-induced current in coastal waters. The hydrodynamic model was based on the finite volume method while the intercell flux was computed by employing the Harten–Lax–van Leer approximate Riemann solver to investigate the dry-to-wet interface, and the drag force of vegetation was modeled as the sink terms in the momentum equations. The CMS-wave model was used to investigate the non-breaking and the breaking random waves propagation in vegetation fields. Afterwards, an empirical wave energy dissipation term with plant effect was derived to represent the resistance induced by aquatic vegetation in the wave-action balance equation. The established model was calibrated and validated with both the experimental and field data. The results showed that the wave height decreased significantly along the wave propagation direction in the presence of vegetations. The sensitivity analysis for the plant density, the wave height, and the water depth were performed by comparing the numerical results for the wave height attenuation. In addition, wave and wave-induced current through a finite patch of vegetation in the surf zone were investigated as well. The strong radiation stress gradient could be produced due to the variation of the energy dissipation by vegetation effect in the nearshore zone, which impacted the direction and amplitude of the longshore current. The calculated results showed that the coupling model had good performance in predicting wave propagation and the current over vegetated water regions.  相似文献   

2.
The present work proposes a siting process for the detection of a suitable site for wave energy exploitation. The choice of a suitable site is based on the good agreement between energy availability, environmental sustainability, and equipped facilities to exploit wave energy. The case study in the northern Latium coast is explicative because in this area there are several activities that affect marine ecosystems, and the introduction of renewable energies promote the reduction of anthropic pressures. The nearshore wave power is studied through the numerical wave model (CMS-Wave), and available wave buoys along the coast were used to compare numerical results. In correspondence with Civitavecchia harbour, the largest nearshore wave energy was found; the large depth in front of the breakwater allows to conserve a great part of offshore wave power, with an average dissipation rate of 10 % less than offshore, with mean annual available wave energy of 25.4 MWh/m and seasonal fluctuation of 5.4 MWh/m. This area appears to be an optimal site for nearshore and shoreline wave energy device tests and installations, for energy availability (intermediate level respect Mediterreanean Sea), low potential environmental impact, easier accessibility, and policy oriented towards a larger sustainability of harbour activities.  相似文献   

3.
Wave hydrodynamics around a multi-functional artificial reef at Leirosa   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
This paper describes an application of the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model to study the wave hydrodynamics in the vicinity of a multi-functional artificial reef (MFAR). This reef is under investigation and consists of a supplementary protection solution for the Leirosa sand dune system located at South of Figueira da Foz, on the Portuguese West coast. Such installation near the coastline is expected to contribute to enhance the surfing conditions in the area, protect the sand dune system in the surroundings of Leirosa beach, and increase its environmental value. Numerical calculations with the COULWAVE model were performed for four test cases, considering two reef geometries (differing in the reef angle) and two incident wave conditions (storm condition and a common wave condition). Comparisons between the results obtained, in terms of wave heights and breaking line positions allow us to assess the influence of the reef on the hydrodynamics near the beach and around the reef. Moreover, the reef performance was analysed in terms of surfability and coastal protection. The surfability parameters (breaker height, Iribarren number and peel angle) were calculated for each test case using the numerical wave heights, wave directions and wave breaking positions. Comparisons of parameters allow characterizing the most appropriate configuration of the reef to improve the surfing conditions in the study area. A methodology based on numerical free surface elevations and horizontal velocity components was developed to calculate wave directions, since this is not a direct output of the COULWAVE model. Concerning coastal protection, analyses of the mean currents around the reef were used together with observations of the velocity cells near the shoreline as an indication of the sediment transport.  相似文献   

4.
This study aims to develop methods that are capable of deciding the breaking criterion for an internal solitary wave (ISW) propagating over a submarine ridge. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave tank to measure ISWs propagating over a submarine ridge. The results suggest that the ISW-ridge interaction can be grouped according to three degrees of magnitude based on the blockage parameter ζ and the degree of blocking B. For classification reasons, we first present an alternative decision model for evaluating the interaction of ISWs with an underwater ridge in a two-layer system. This approach is based on a multivariate statistical method and discriminant analysis. Information obtained from the eigenvalues is used to combine different ratio measures which are defined according to every single input and output. The discriminant model effectively classifies units into distinct predefined groups. An experimental simulation is conducted to demonstrate the practical implementation of the ISW-ridge interaction. The results of the method applied in this example are statistically significant, demonstrating the effectiveness of the ISW-ridge interaction classification method.  相似文献   

5.
Lake Villarrica, located in south central Chile, has a maximum depth of 167 m and a maximum fetch of about 20 km. The lake is monomictic, with a seasonal thermocline located at a depth of approximately 20 m. Field data show the presence of basin-scale internal waves that are forced by daily winds and affected by Coriolis acceleration. A modal linear and non-linear analysis of internal waves has been used, assuming a two-layer system. The numerical simulations show good agreement with the internal wave field observations. The obtained modes were used to study the energy dissipation within the system, which is necessary to control the amplitude growth. Field data and numerical simulations identify (1) the occurrence of a horizontal mode 1 Kelvin wave, with a period of about a day that coincides with the frequency of daily winds, suggesting that this mode of the Kelvin waves is in a resonant state (subject to damping and controlled by frictional effects in the field) and (2) the presence of higher-frequency internal waves, which are excited by non-linear interactions between basin-scale internal waves. The non-linear simulation indicates that only 10 % of the dissipation rate of the Kelvin wave is because of bottom friction, while the rest 90 % represents the energy that is radiated from the Kelvin wave to other modes. Also, this study shows that modes with periods between 5 and 8 h are excited by non-linear interactions between the fundamental Kelvin wave and horizontal Poincaré-type waves. A laboratory study of the resonant interaction between a periodic forcing and the internal wave field response has also been performed, confirming the resonance for the horizontal mode 1 Kelvin wave.  相似文献   

6.
Canopy-forming macroalgae are key species on temperate rocky shores. However, there is a lack of understanding of how the relative balance of physical and biological factors controls the establishment and persistence of intertidal macroalgae. Here we present an integrated study of the relative importance of wave-induced forces and grazing for the recruitment and survival of the canopy-forming intertidal macroalgae Fucus vesiculosus and F. spiralis. A set of overtopped breakwaters provided a nearly unconfounded gradient in wave exposure between seaward and landward sides. A biomechanical analysis was performed based on empirical measurements of maximum drag forces in breaking waves, a model of long-term maximum wave height, and the breaking stress of Fucus spp. The estimated maximum flow speed (7-8 m/s) on the seaward side of the breakwaters was predicted to completely dislodge or prune Fucus spp. larger than approximately 10 cm, while dislodgment was highly unlikely on the landward side for all sizes. Experimental transplantation of Fucus spp. supported the biomechanical analysis but also suggested that mechanical abrasion may further limit survival in wave-exposed locations. Experimental removal of the limpet Patella vulgata, which was the principal grazer at this site, resulted in recruitment of Fucus spp. on the seaward side. We present a model of limpet grazing that indicates that limpet densities >5-20 individuals/m2 provide a proximate mechanism preventing establishment of Fucus spp., whereas wave action >2 m/s reduces persistence through dislodgment and battering. In a conceptual model we further propose that recruitment and survival of juvenile Fucus spp. are controlled indirectly by wave exposure through higher limpet densities at exposed locations. This model predicts that climate change, and in particular an increased frequency of storm events in the northeast Atlantic, will restrict fucoids to more sheltered locations.  相似文献   

7.
Functional data analysis (FDA) is a set of tools developed to perform statistical analysis on data having a functional form. In our case we consider the one-dimensional wave surface profiles registered during a North-Sea storm as functional data. The data is split into 20 min intervals within which an individual wave is defined as the profile between two consecutive downcrossings. After registration of these individual waves to the interval [0, 1], the mean wave profile for the entire 20 min interval is obtained along with the first two derivatives of this mean profile. We analyze the shape of these mean waves and their derivatives and show how they change as a function of the significant wave height, which is a measure of the severity of the sea for the corresponding time interval. We also look at the evolution of the energy, as represented by the phase diagram, as a function of significant wave height. The results show the asymmetry in vertical and horizontal scales for real data. Comparison with a Gaussian wave simulation model calculated from the actual wave spectra shows important differences in symmetry and shape of the average wave and seem to indicate that the greatest difference in the distribution of energy during the wave cycle lies in the second and fourth quarters of the wave period. FDA can be applied to derive information on the individual and average wave profiles and also provide an understanding of the variation in energy throughout the wave phase.  相似文献   

8.
A series of laboratory experiments has been carried out to investigate the passage of an internal solitary wave of depression over a bottom ridge, in a two-layer fluid system for which the upper and lower layer is linearly-stratified and homogeneous respectively. Density, velocity and vorticity fields induced by the wave propagation over the ridge have been measured simultaneously at three locations, namely upstream, downstream and over the ridge crest, for a wide range of model parameters. Results are presented to show that wave breaking may occur for a sufficiently large wave amplitude and a strong ridge blockage factor, with accompanying mixing and overturning. Density field data are presented (i) to illustrate the overturning and mixing processes that accompany the wave breaking and (ii) to quantify the degree of mixing in terms of the wave and ridge parameters. For weak encounters, good agreement is obtained between the laboratory experimental results (velocity and vorticity fields induced by the wave propagation) and the predictions of a recently-developed fully nonlinear theory. Discrepancies between theory and experiment are discussed for cases in which breaking and mixing occur.  相似文献   

9.
Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied experimentally in a Hele-Shaw configuration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models with linear momentum damping are adequately capturing the large scale nonlinear wave motion. Subsequently, we show that the four types of wave breaking observed at real-world beaches also emerge on Hele-Shaw laboratory beaches, albeit in idealized forms. Finally, an experimental parameter study is undertaken to quantify the formation of quasi-steady beach morphologies due to nonlinear, breaking waves: berm or dune, beach and bar formation are all classified. Our research reveals that the Hele-Shaw beach configuration allows a wealth of experimental and modelling extensions, including benchmarking of forecast models used in the coastal engineering practice, especially for shingle beaches.  相似文献   

10.
Internal solitary waves (ISWs) have been detected in many parts of the world oceans, particularly over slope-shelf topography, on which signature of waveform inversion has been identified. The effects of these waves on engineering operations and ecological process have also been reported in the literature. This article reports the results of a series of numerical modeling and laboratory experiments on waveform evolution of a depression ISW in a nearly stratified two-layer fluid system, in which specific water depth ratios above the horizontal plateau of the trapezoidal obstacle were arranged to facilitate the occurrence of waveform inversion. Classifications of waveform instability (no instability, shear instability and overturning with breaking) on the slope are confirmed in the present laboratory study. Numerical results for waveform variation are also found in fair agreement with the laboratory measurements for cases without waveform inversion and minor internal breaking. Moreover, laboratory results revealed that the depth ratio of the stratified two-layer fluid above the plateau and the magnitude of the incident ISW were the two most important factors for promoting waveform inversion beyond a turning point, in addition to the requirement of a sufficient distance from the shoulder of the trapezoidal obstacle. These factors also influenced the outcome of the shoaling process, energy dissipation, internal wave breaking and turbulent mixing on the front slope, as well as the likelihood of waveform inversion on the horizontal plateau. Contrary to the common perception, it was also observed, at least from the results of the present laboratory experiments, that not all the incident ISWs of depression would produce waveform inversion on the plateau, where the upper layer was physical greater than the bottom layer, unless moderate incident wave was provided. The outcome might also be attributed to the limited distance from the shoulder onto the plateau in the present laboratory setup. However, once waveform inversion occurred on the plateau, it was found, among others, that: (1) the amplitude of the transmitted leading crest and trough might be as low as 30 and 20%, respectively, to the amplitude of the incident wave in depression; (2) the characteristic wavelength of the transmitted leading trough doubled while that of the crest was asymptotically one-half of the incident wavelength, despite the wide range variation in the depth ratios above the plateau; and (3) the transmitted potential wave energy of the leading crest contained 30% of the incident energy. Based on the results of present laboratory experiments, the range for the non-dimensional parameter α, which indicates the effect of nonlinearity and the promotion of waveform inversion on horizontal plateau, will be proposed.  相似文献   

11.
A series of laboratory experiments was undertaken in a stratified two-layer fluid to investigate the energetics of the interaction between an internal solitary wave (ISW) and triangular obstacles, as well as to determine the partitioning of ISW energy and its subsequent dynamics. The ISW energy was dissipated as a result of internal breaking and turbulent mixing induced by wave instability. Tests involving different combinations of triangular obstacles in various heights and intervals and ISW of different amplitudes were performed. The wave features resulting from the interaction of an ISW and double obstacles were found to differ from those of single obstacle. The incident energy of an ISW was either reflecting back from the obstacles, dissipated through turbulent mixing, or transmitted over the double obstacles. Reduction in wave energy increased as the intervals between obstacles reduced. For two obstacles in different heights, energy dissipation was greater in the case with a higher obstacle ahead of a lower one. However, the overall performance was dependent on the relative height of the obstacles, relative water depth of the upper and bottom layer, in addition to the intervals between the obstacles.  相似文献   

12.
In this paper we examine the characteristics of near-inertial internal Poincaré waves in Lake Michigan (USA) as discerned from field experiments and hydrodynamic simulations. The focus is on the determination of the lateral and vertical structure of the waves. Observations of near-inertial internal wave properties are presented from two field experiments in southern Lake Michigan conducted during the years 2009 and 2010 at Michigan City (IN, USA) and Muskegon (MI, USA), respectively. Spectra of thermocline displacements and baroclinic velocities show that kinetic and potential baroclinic energy is dominated by near-inertial internal Poincaré waves. Vertical structure discerned from empirical orthogonal function analysis shows that this energy is predominantly vertical mode 1. Idealized hydrodynamic simulations using stratifications from early summer (June), mid-summer (July) and fall (September) identify the basin-scale internal Poincaré wave structure as a combination of single- and two-basin cells, similar to those identified in Lake Erie by Schwab, with near-surface velocities largest in the center of the northern and southern basins. Near-inertial bottom kinetic energy is seen to have roughly constant magnitude over large swathes across the basin, with higher magnitude in the shallower areas like the Mid-lake Plateau, as compared with the deep northern and southern basins. The near-bottom near-inertial kinetic energy when mapped appears similar to the bottom topography map. The wave-induced vertical shear across thermocline is concentrated along the longitudinal axis of the lake basin, and both near-bottom velocities and thermocline shear are reasonably explained by a simple conceptual model of the expected transverse variability.  相似文献   

13.
Understanding longshore sediment transport (LST) is a prerequisite for designing an effective coastal zone management strategy. The present study estimates the LST along the central west coast of India based on four bulk LST formulae: (1) the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) formula, (2) the Walton and Bruno formula, (3) the Kamphuis formula and (4) the Komar formula. The Delft3D–wave module is used for estimating nearshore waves with measured directional wave data at a water depth of 9 m as the input parameter. Wave data for the validation of the nearshore wave transformation model is measured using the InterOcean S4DW wave gauge. The model results show that waves approach from the south 90 % of the time in a year and that they generate predominantly northerly longshore currents. Upon comparison with the measured data, the findings show that the estimates based on the Kamphuis formula agree with the field data. A high ratio (~1) of the monthly net and gross transport rates indicates that the LST is dominating in one direction in all months except February and July. The study shows that a slight change in the angle of the wave approach during the Asian summer monsoon period (JJAS) can significantly alter the direction and magnitude of the LST. Inter-annual variations in the LST based on the data for 2009 and 2011 show that the variations in the annual net and gross LST rates in different years are less than 7 %.  相似文献   

14.
Dam-break flood waves are associated with major environmental disasters provoked by the sudden release of water stored in reservoirs. Ritter found in 1892 an analytical solution to the wave structure of an ideal fluid released during an instantaneous dam failure, propagating over initially dry horizontal terrain. This solution, though ideal, hence frictionless, is widely used to test numerical solutions of the Shallow Water Equations (SWE), and as educational tool in courses of fluid mechanics, given that it is a peculiar case of the Riemann problem. However, the real wave structure observed experimentally differs in a major portion of the wave profile, including the positive and negative fronts. Given the importance of an accurate prediction of the dam break wave, the positive and negative wave portions originating from the breaking of a dam with initially dry land on the tailwater reach are revisited in this work. First, the propagation features of the dry-front are investigated using an analytical boundary-layer type model (Whitham/Dressler/Chanson model) constructed matching an (outer) inviscid dynamic wave to an (inner) viscous diffusive wave. The analytical solution is evaluated using an accurate numerical solution of the SWE produced using the MUSCL-Hancock finite-volume method, which is tested independently obtaining the solution based on the discontinuous Galerkin finite-element method. The propagation features of the negative wave are poorly reproduced by the SWE during the initial stages of dam break flows, and, thus, are then investigated using the Serre–Green–Naghdi equations for weakly-dispersive fully non-linear water waves, which are solved using a finite volume-finite difference scheme.  相似文献   

15.
The flow structure in the aerated region of the roller generated by breaking waves remains a great challenge to study, with large quantities of entrained air and turbulence interactions making it very difficult to investigate in details. A number of analogies were proposed between breaking waves in deep or shallow water, tidal bores and hydraulic jumps. Many numerical models used to simulate waves in the surf zone do not implicitly simulate the breaking process of the waves, but are required to parameterise the wave-breaking effects, thus relying on experimental data. Analogies are also assumed to quantify the roller dynamics and the energy dissipation. The scope of this paper is to review the different analogies proposed in the literature and to discuss current practices. A thorough survey is offered and a discussion is developed an aimed at improving the use of possible breaking proxies. The most recent data are revisited and scrutinised for the use of most advanced numerical models to educe the surf zone hydrodynamics. In particular, the roller dynamics and geometrical characteristics are discussed. An open discussion is proposed to explore the actual practices and propose perspectives based on the most appropriate analogy, namely the tidal bore.  相似文献   

16.
The application of adaptive cluster sampling for rare subtidal macroalgae   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Adaptive cluster sampling (ACS) is a targeting sampling method that provides unbiased abundance estimators for populations of rare species that may be inadequately sampled with simple random sampling (SRS). ACS has been used successfully to estimate abundances of rockfish and sardine larvae from shipboard surveys. In this study, we describe the application of ACS for subtidal macroalgae. Using SCUBA, we measured abundances of Codium mamillosum, C. pomoides, and Halimeda cuneata at three islands and two levels of wave exposure. The three species were relatively patchy and could be sampled with ACS at one site per dive. Their distributions differed among islands and with exposure to wave energy, with H. cuneata found at only one island. ACS is a useful tool for understanding the spatial distribution and abundance of populations of rare benthic species, but, as was the case in this study, may not be as efficient as sampling with SRS with comparable replication.  相似文献   

17.
This paper presents a study of the waves generated by a solid block landslide moving along a horizontal boundary. The landslide was controlled using a mechanical system in a series of physical experiments, and laser-induced fluorescence measurements resolved both spatial and temporal variations in the free surface elevation. During its constant-velocity motion, the landslide transferred energy into ‘trapped’ offshore-propagating waves within a narrow frequency band. The wave trapping is demonstrated by investigating the wave dispersion characteristics using a two-dimensional Fourier Transform. The first of the trailing waves broke at Froude numbers greater than or equal to 0.625. The parametric dependence of the largest-amplitude waves and the potential energy within the wave field are discussed. The experimental results were compared to the predictions of an incompressible Navier–Stokes solver with and without turbulence models. The numerical model under-predicted the measured wave amplitudes, although it accurately predicted the measured wave phasing. The turbulent model more accurately predicted the shapes of the trailing waves. Both experimental and numerical results confirmed that investigations into wave generation by submerged objects moving at constant velocity should also consider the initial acceleration of the object, as this affects the overall evolution of the wave field. The applicability of the horizontal-boundary results to more realistic field scenarios is discussed.  相似文献   

18.
An accurate prediction of near-shore sea-state is imperative during extreme events such as cyclones required in an operational centre. The mutual interaction between physical processes such as tides, waves and currents determine the physical environment for any coastal region, and hence the need of a parallelized coupled wave and hydrodynamic model. The present study is an application of various state-of-art models such as WRF, WAM, SWAN and ADCIRC used to couple and simulate a severe cyclonic storm Thane that developed in the Bay of Bengal during December 2011. The coupled model (ADCIRC–SWAN) was run in a parallel mode on a flexible unstructured mesh. Thane had its landfall on 30 December, 2011 between Cuddalore and Pondicherry where in-situ observations were available to validate model performance. Comprehensive experiment on the impact of meteorological forcing parameters with two forecasted tracks derived from WRF model, and JTWC best track on the overall performance of coupled model was assessed. Further an extensive validation experiment was performed for significant wave heights and surface currents during Thane event. The significant wave heights measured along satellite tracks by three satellites viz; ENVISAT, JASON-1 and JASON-2, as well in-situ near-shore buoy observation off Pondicherry was used for comparison with model results. In addition, qualitative validation was performed for model computed currents with HF Radar Observation off Cuddalore during Thane event. The importance of WRF atmospheric model during cyclones and its robustness in the coupled model performance is highlighted. This study signifies the importance of coupled parallel ADCIRC–SWAN model for operational needs during extreme events in the North Indian Ocean.  相似文献   

19.
How to measure development of ecosystems is both a theoretical and practical question in ecology. Species richness and biomass accumulation are familiar figures of merit, but they cannot be instant watched. Self-organization is a tacit character. However, methods to measure the degree of self-organization of ecosystem are problematic. To this end Lin et al. (2009) have devised indicators of energy capture and dissipation so that self-organization defined via maximum energy dissipation can be quantified easily. Here the method is used to analyze long-term data (2004-2006) of a tropical seasonal rain forest included in the ChinaFLUX program. Three years of average self-organization values were clearly separated by seasonal variation. Reflection and long wave radiation are the main two pathways of energy loss. For tropical seasonal rain forest studied, long wave radiation contributed most to energy loss, and was negatively correlated with energy capture ability (Rn/DR). The nocturnal difference between canopy and air temperatures had a strong negative correlation with the long wave radiation loss ratio. However, the long wave radiation loss ratio was slightly lower than the reflection loss ratio in rainy season, when values were very low. Precipitation and wind had significant impact on energy dissipation ability in the hot dry season, but the correlation coefficients between precipitation and wind with thermal response numbers (TRNs) were very low. The results indicated that the self-organization estimation system based on “maximum energy dissipation theory” is applicable for tropical forest.  相似文献   

20.
A photochemical model of benzene degradation compares well with experimental data obtained in the Lab. 62 reactions were needed to fully describe benzene degradation. A feasibility study shows that the photolysis of benzene is a cost-effective process. Experimental data and modeling results show that the degradation efficiency will increase when the combination of UV light and ozone is used. The degradation of benzene, a carcinogenic air pollutant, was studied in a gas-phase photochemical reactor with an amalgam lamp emitting ultraviolet light at 185 and 254 nm. Efficient benzene degradation (>70%) was possible for benzene mass flow rates of up to 1.5 mg·min−1. Adding ozone allowed benzene mass flow rates of up to 5 mg·min−1 to be treated with the same efficiency. In terms of energy consumption, ozone doubles the efficiency of the process. A comprehensive mechanistic simulation model was developed incorporating a chemical kinetics model (62 reactions involving 47 chemical species), a material balance model incorporating diffusion and flow, a flow velocity model, and a light field model. The model successfully predicted the efficiency of the reactor, generally within 20%, which indicates that the model is sound, and can be used for feasibility studies. The prediction of the reactor efficiency in the presence of ozone was less successful, with systematically overestimated efficiency. Condensation of reaction products in the reactor is thought to be the main cause of model inaccuracy. Both experimental data and model predictions show that there is a synergistic effect between ozonation and ultraviolet degradation.  相似文献   

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