Wave hydrodynamics around a multi-functional artificial reef at Leirosa

This paper describes an application of the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model to study the wave hydrodynamics in the vicinity of a multi-functional artificial reef (MFAR). This reef is under investigation and consists of a supplementary protection solution for the Leirosa sand dune system located at South of Figueira da Foz, on the Portuguese West coast. Such installation near the coastline is expected to contribute to enhance the surfing conditions in the area, protect the sand dune system in the surroundings of Leirosa beach, and increase its environmental value. Numerical calculations with the COULWAVE model were performed for four test cases, considering two reef geometries (differing in the reef angle) and two incident wave conditions (storm condition and a common wave condition). Comparisons between the results obtained, in terms of wave heights and breaking line positions allow us to assess the influence of the reef on the hydrodynamics near the beach and around the reef. Moreover, the reef performance was analysed in terms of surfability and coastal protection. The surfability parameters (breaker height, Iribarren number and peel angle) were calculated for each test case using the numerical wave heights, wave directions and wave breaking positions. Comparisons of parameters allow characterizing the most appropriate configuration of the reef to improve the surfing conditions in the study area. A methodology based on numerical free surface elevations and horizontal velocity components was developed to calculate wave directions, since this is not a direct output of the COULWAVE model. Concerning coastal protection, analyses of the mean currents around the reef were used together with observations of the velocity cells near the shoreline as an indication of the sediment transport.     

A σ-coordinate transport model coupled with rotational boussinesq-type equations

This paper describes a σ-coordinate scalar transport model coupled with a Boussinesq-type hydrodynamic model. The Boussinesq model has the ability to calculate both three-dimensional velocity distributions and the water surface motion. To capture ‘dispersion’ processes in open channel flow, horizontal vorticity effects induced by a bottom shear stress are included in the Boussinesq model. Thus, a reasonable representation of vertical flow structure can be captured in shallow and wavy flow fields. To solve the coupled Boussinesq and scalar transport system, a finite-volume method, based on a Godunov-type scheme with the HLL Riemann solver, is employed. Basic advection and advection–diffusion numerical tests in a non-rectangular domain were carried out and the computed results show good agreement with analytic solutions. With quantitative comparisons of dispersion experiments in an open channel, it is verified that the proposed coupled model is appropriate for both near and far field scalar transport predictions. From numerical simulations in the surf zone, physically reasonable results showing expected vertical variation are obtained.     

Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves: a mathematics-inspired experiment

Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied experimentally in a Hele-Shaw configuration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models with linear momentum damping are adequately capturing the large scale nonlinear wave motion. Subsequently, we show that the four types of wave breaking observed at real-world beaches also emerge on Hele-Shaw laboratory beaches, albeit in idealized forms. Finally, an experimental parameter study is undertaken to quantify the formation of quasi-steady beach morphologies due to nonlinear, breaking waves: berm or dune, beach and bar formation are all classified. Our research reveals that the Hele-Shaw beach configuration allows a wealth of experimental and modelling extensions, including benchmarking of forecast models used in the coastal engineering practice, especially for shingle beaches.     

Numerical modeling of the 26th December 2004 India Ocean tsunami at Andaman and Nicobar Islands

A numerical simulation of the 26th December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami for the Andaman and Nicobar Islands case study is presented. The simulation approach is based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq tsunami propagation model and included an accurate computational domain and a robust coseismic source. The simulation is first confronted to available tide gauge and run-up observations. The agreement between observations and the predicted wave heights allowed a reasonable validation of the simulation. As a result a full picture of the tsunami impact is provided over the entire coastal zone of Andaman and Nicobar Islands. The processes responsible for coastal vulnerability are discussed.     

Room to move? Threatened shorebird habitat in the path of sea level rise—dynamic beaches, multiple users, and mixed ownership: a case study from Rhode Island, USA

Accelerated sea level rise (slr) is expected to transform vulnerable Atlantic coastal habitats in the United States during this century. Low-elevation sandy beaches, important nesting habitat for the continued recovery of the federally threatened piping plover (Charadrius melodus) in Rhode Island, are especially vulnerable. These beaches, under a mix of private and public ownership, exist in a heterogeneous landscape of dunes, rocky headlands, salt ponds, and heavily developed areas. Understanding the extent to which piping plover nesting beaches can retreat landward under projected slr is important for prioritizing future conservation actions across multiple jurisdictions. This research examines habitat change in response to slr (0.5, 1.0, and 1.5 m) under stationary and migration beach responses and whether development blocks habitat migration for five productive piping plover nesting beaches. We found that under the stationary habitat model, all beaches lose area under all slr scenarios. For the habitat migration model, future habitat availability differs by beach depending on elevation, landward topography, and presence of development. However, across the majority of beach area, piping plover habitat will be able to migrate landward if unconstrained by future development. A coalition of public and private stakeholders already supports management efforts to help ensure plover population recovery in the area. With emerging habitat change prediction tools, these stakeholders and other partners can engage in innovative, local-level planning needed to protect wildlife habitat and commercial, residential, and infrastructure assets from sea level rise.     

Analyzing wave breaking in a barred beach using wavelet

In this paper, a cross-shore profile evolution model, Uniform Beach Sediment Transport-Time-Averaged Cross-Shore (UNIBEST-TC), is used. The model was developed at WL/Delft hydraulic laboratory in the Netherlands. The model is used to predict wave height in a barred beach (Egmond site, The Netherlands) and the results show that there is a good agreement between the measured and predicted values by the model. In the present study, Morlet wavelet is used to distinguish the breaking waves; it is integrated over frequency to provide the temporal variation of localized total energy. The study shows that the local peaks of the energy densities correspond to the events of wave breaking in the predicted–wave time series. Furthermore, the wave energy distribution shows a tendency to decrease in the off-shore direction of the inner bar.     

The simulation of a Southern California red tide using characteristics of a simultaneously-measured internal wave field

Temperature data obtained from NUC Tower, San Diego, California during May–June 1968 provide input to a three-wave period version of MOVER, a computer model that simulates organism diurnal vertical migration through an internal wave field. The locally characteristic wave periods are 21.50 h, 12.50 h and 0.42 h. The phase of the modeled interval wave spectrum matches the field observations for a 10-day period preceding and including a red tide. MOVER's output shows a rapid aggregation of representative phytoplankton under all modeled conditions. The aggregation or red tide occurs at the geographic location of NUC Tower under certain organism behavioral regimes. Whether these conditions actually occurred at NUC Tower in May 1968 is not certain from the available data.     

The value of disappearing beaches: A hedonic pricing model with endogenous beach width

Beach nourishment is a policy used to rebuild eroding beaches with sand dredged from other locations. Previous studies indicate that beach width positively affects coastal property values, but these studies ignore the dynamic features of beaches and the feedback that nourishment has on shoreline retreat. We correct for the resulting attenuation and endogeneity bias in a hedonic property value model by instrumenting for beach width using spatially varying coastal geological features. We find that the beach width coefficient is nearly five times larger than the OLS estimate, suggesting that beach width is a much larger portion of property value than previously thought. We use the empirical results to parameterize a dynamic optimization model of beach nourishment decisions and show that the predicted interval between nourishment projects is closer to what we observe in the data when we use the estimate from the instrumental variables model rather than OLS. As coastal communities adapt to climate change, we find that the long-term net value of coastal residential property can fall by as much as 52% when erosion rate triples and cost of nourishment sand quadruples.     

Two and three-dimensional shoreline behaviour at a MESO-MACROTIDAL barred beach

The present work investigates cross-shore shoreline migration as well as its alongshore variability (with deformation) on timescales of days to years using 6 years of time-averaged video images. The variability of the shoreline is estimated through empirical statistical methods with comprehensive reference to three scales of variability. At the meso-to macro-tidal barred Biscarrosse beach, shoreline responds in decreasing order at seasonal (winter/summer cycles, 52%), event (storms, 28%) and inter-annual scales. Whereas seasonal evolution is dominated by wave climate modulation, short-term evolution is influenced by tidal range and surf-zone sandbar characteristics. The influence of tide range and sandbars increases when timescale decreases. This is even more the case for the alongshore deformation of the shoreline which is dominated by short-term evolution. An EOF analysis reveals that the first mode of shoreline change time series is associated with cross-shore migration and explains 58% of the shoreline variability. The rest of the modes are associated to deformation which explain 42% of shoreline variability.     

3D model for a secondary facultative pond

This paper describes a comprehensive model of wastewater treatment in secondary facultative ponds, which combines 3D hydrodynamics with a mechanistic water quality model. The hydrodynamics are based on the Navier-Stokes equation for incompressible fluids under shallow water and Boussinesq assumptions capturing the flow dynamics along length, breadth and depth of the pond. The water quality sub model is based on the Activated Sludge Model (ASM) concept, describing COD and nutrient removal as function of bacterial growth following Monod kinetics, except for Escherichia coli removal, which was modelled as first order decay. The model was implemented in the Delft3D software and was used to evaluate the effect of wind and the addition of baffles on the water flow pattern, temperature profiles in the pond and treatment efficiency. In contrast to earlier models reported in the literature, our simulation results did not show any significant improvement in COD removal (based on the ASM concept) with addition of baffles or under intermittent wind-induced mixing. However, E. coli removal efficiency, based on a first order decay approach, showed a fair improvement in the presence of baffles or intermittent wind-induced mixing. Furthermore, simulations with continuous wind effect showed a decrease in removal efficiency for COD but a further increase in E. coli removal efficiency. Such contrasting results for two different approaches in modelling could indicate that the first order decay concept might not be appropriate to describe all the interactions between biochemical processes in a pond. However, these interpretations remain theoretical, as the model needs validation with field data.     

Discrimination of ocean wave features by hatchling loggerhead sea turtles, Caretta caretta

At the beginning of their offshore migration, hatchling sea turtles orient directly into oceanic waves as they swim away from land. Recent experiments have demonstrated that hatchlings swimming underwater can determine the propagation direction of waves by monitoring the circular movements they experience as waves pass above. During July and August 1993, we studied how loggerhead sea turtle hatchlings (Caretta caretta L.) from the east coast of Florida, USA, responded to a range of wave parameters. We constructed a wave simulator to reproduce in air the circular movements that normally occur beneath small ocean waves. Hatchlings suspended in air and subjected to these orbital movements attempted to orient into simulated waves when periods and amplitudes were similar to those found near the Florida coast. Orbital movements with longer periods (greater than 10 s), however, failed to elicit responses. The results demonstrate that hatchling loggerheads can distinguish between waves with different periods and amplitudes, and that Florida hatchlings respond most strongly to orbital movements closely resembling those of waves that occur near their natal beach. Received: 28 May 1996 / Accepted: 17 September 1996     

New beach in a shallow estuarine lagoon: a model-based <Emphasis Type="Italic">E. coli</Emphasis> pollution risk assessment

A 3D hydrodynamic model has been applied to the Curonian Lagoon to study the pollution impact of E. coli on a new beach that might be opened in the lagoon. Through a field survey the E. coli inputs were measured and then used in the numerical model, and through laboratory experiments the decay rate of E. coli was established. The model has been calibrated and validated for the year 2015, and several scenarios have been studied, such as sewage system breakdown, severe weather conditions or high river loads. The model has then been run for a period of 12 years to obtain a robust statistics for the pollution on the planned beach. Results show that the decay rate of E. coli is between 0.55 days and 2.3 days and the modeled decay times are compatible with these numbers. The only scenario that would create a risk for the bathing waters of the beach is a breakdown of the sewage system on the Curonian Spit. In this case the hours (and days) over legally allowable bathing threshold were computed in order to estimate the number of days the beach could be closed. These results have been confirmed by the 12 year simulations. With an influence map analysis the two most critical sewage systems could be identified.     

Evolution of a beach nourishment project using dredged sand from navigation channel,Dunkirk, northern France

The largest beach replenishment project ever in France was completed in February 2014 in Dunkirk on the coast of northern France. A volume of 1.5 × 10⁶ m³ of sand extracted from a navigation channel was placed on the beach to build up a 150 to 300 m wide supratidal platform in front of a dike, called « Digue des Alliés », which protects several residential districts of Dunkirk from marine flooding. High resolution topographic surveys were carried out during 2½ years to monitor beach morphological changes, completed by a hydrodynamic field experiment conducted in February 2016. Approximately ?138,200 m³ of sand, corresponding to 9.2% of the initial nourishment volume, were eroded over the nourishment area in about 2 years. An obvious decrease in erosion eastward with a shift from erosion to accumulation was observed, suggesting an eastward redistribution of sand. This longshore sand drift is beneficial for the eastward beach of Malo-les-Bains where most of the recreational activities are concentrated. Hydrodynamic measurements showed that waves and wave-induced currents play a major role on the longshore sand redistribution compared to tidal flows. Strong relationships were observed between cumulative offshore wave power and beach volume change during distinct beach survey periods (R² = 0.79 to 0.87), with more significant correlations for northerly waves. A slight decrease in erosion during the second year compared to the first year after nourishment suggests that the loss of sand should decrease after an initial phase of rapid readjustment of the beach shape towards equilibrium.     

Risk assessment of coastal flood in a site of special scientific interest

The Canary Islands have a long coastline with varying levels of exposure to severe sea conditions. Frequent states of alert and emergency in some parts of their coastline are commonly related to the occurrence of extreme wave conditions. Among the phenomena directly driven by the waves when reaching the shore are the wave run-up and overtopping. Both the study of the flood level, including its variability, and the associated risks are key tools in the planning and management of coastal zones. The aim of this research is to examine the probability of occurrence of run-up events capable of exceeding different topographical levels, for estimating the risk level associated with flooding of the different areas in which the Boca Barranco Beach can be divided, in terms of their nature and use. This beach is located on the island of Gran Canaria, Spain, and is part of the site of scientific interest of Jinámar. A large wave dataset is used as input to a high-resolution numerical model for propagating offshore wave conditions to shallow waters in the study area. Furthermore, the morphology of the study area is reproduced by combining different bathymetric databases. Finally, the probability of occurrence of different levels of run-up and the corresponding levels of consequences are assigned, to assess the flood risk in the different areas of the beach, which are presented in a risk map of flooding in the study area.     

Physical and numerical modelling of tsunami generation by a moving obstacle at the bottom boundary

This paper presents a study of the waves generated by a solid block landslide moving along a horizontal boundary. The landslide was controlled using a mechanical system in a series of physical experiments, and laser-induced fluorescence measurements resolved both spatial and temporal variations in the free surface elevation. During its constant-velocity motion, the landslide transferred energy into ‘trapped’ offshore-propagating waves within a narrow frequency band. The wave trapping is demonstrated by investigating the wave dispersion characteristics using a two-dimensional Fourier Transform. The first of the trailing waves broke at Froude numbers greater than or equal to 0.625. The parametric dependence of the largest-amplitude waves and the potential energy within the wave field are discussed. The experimental results were compared to the predictions of an incompressible Navier–Stokes solver with and without turbulence models. The numerical model under-predicted the measured wave amplitudes, although it accurately predicted the measured wave phasing. The turbulent model more accurately predicted the shapes of the trailing waves. Both experimental and numerical results confirmed that investigations into wave generation by submerged objects moving at constant velocity should also consider the initial acceleration of the object, as this affects the overall evolution of the wave field. The applicability of the horizontal-boundary results to more realistic field scenarios is discussed.     

Ecology of sandy beaches in Oman

The benthic macrofauna and physical features of 10 sandy beaches along the coast of Oman were surveyed quantitatively. This is a mesotidal regime mostly subject to low to moderate wave energy but more exposed in the south. Five northern beaches are tide-dominated, with low wave energy, and their profiles consist of a berm, a steep, swash-dominated upper shore and a broad tide-dominated terrace from mid-shore downwards. They are composed of moderately sorted fine to medium sands. Southern beaches experience greater wave energy, particularly during the summer southwest monsoon, and exhibit smoother, concave profiles with fine, fairly well sorted carbonate sand. 58 species and species groups were recorded, with crustanceans, polychaetes and molluscs dominant. In general species richness was high, at least 19–25 species per beach, but dry biomass moderate to low at 26–90g/m shoreline, with one high value of 450g/m. Total abundance was moderate at 3–73×10³ organisms/m of beach. Some zonation was evident with ocypodid crabs andTylos in the supralittoral, cirolanid isopods on the upper shore and a variety of species on the lower shore. The coast of Oman appears to constitute a single zoogeographic region, but with some regional differentiation between north and south due to varying physical conditions. Thus, OmanÕs beaches are characterized by tide-dominated morphodynamics and exceptionally high species richness.     

Burrowing behaviour inferred from feeding traces of the opheliid polychaete <Emphasis Type="Italic">Euzonus</Emphasis> sp. as response to beach morphodynamics

The distribution of the opheliid polychate Euzonus sp. and the orientation of its feeding traces were examined in a wave-dominated Pacific sandy beach of central Japan by periodical sampling from June to December 2006. This species occurred constantly within sediments at mid-intertidal level, although its horizontal distributions were variable depending on changes of the beach profiles. These facts indicate that Euzonus sp. moved horizontally seaward or landward within the substratum in response to the shifting beach face due to changes of wave conditions from the ocean. By analysing the orientation of feeding traces, the adaptive burrowing behaviour of this species in response to beach topographical changes was revealed: Euzonus worms burrowed horizontally to various directions in a relatively stable condition of beach topography, whereas they moved preferentially landward under a heavy erosion of the beach face by a storm. These findings indicate that the burrowing behaviour prevents Euzonus sp. from excessive burial and washing out due to the beach morphodynamics.     

Analysis of lipid components for determining the condition of anchovy larvae,Engraulis mordax

It has been presumed that intertidal spawning by Limulus polyphemus minimizes the loss of egges to subtidal predators; however, this strategy involves considerable risks. Massive beach strandings of adults accompany seasonal spawning migrations of crabs along Cape May in Delaware Bay, (USA). At least 190000 horseshoe crabs, approximating 10% of the adult population, died from beach stranding along the New Jersey shore of Delaware Bay during the 1986 (May to June) spawning season. Abnormalities of the telson (which is used in righting behavior) were significantly more common among stranded crabs than among individuals actively spawning on the intertidal beach. The number of stranded crabs per day was not correlated with tidal height or environmental variables (wind speed, wave height) which characterized the conditions at spawning. A complex suite of factors, including the size of the available spawning population, tidal and weather conditions, and beach slope, influence the number stranded during the breeding season. Horseshoe crab stranding results in a large loss of gravid females from the population, and may represent a major input of organic matter to intertidal sandy beaches in certain regions of Delaware Bay.     

Solar and landscape cues as orientation mechanisms in the beach-dwelling beetle Eurynebria complanata (Coleoptera,Carabidae)

The present paper reports on the first orientation experiments conducted on the strand-living beetle Eurynebria complanata (Linnaeus, 1767) (Coleoptera, Carabidae). The experiments were carried out from June to October 1988. Two different populations were used: one inhabiting a Tyrrhenian beach in Italy and the other a beach on the Atlantic coast of France. Response to sun compass cues was demonstrated in each population at the collection site and for the French population after transportation to Italy, where experiments were carried out on a differently oriented beach. Landscape cues were shown to improve the beetle's orientation capacity when these were tested together with a visible sun. Artificial landscapes were also tested under laboratory conditions. Different-sized silhouettes were placed in the four cardinal directions, and these envoked different responses depending on their height. The beetles oriented towards a black silhouette when this subtended an angle of 25°. The results obtained for the two populations are compared and discussed from an eco-ethological point of view.