Current status and future restoration of coastal dune systems on the Catalan shoreline (Spain,NW Mediterranean Sea)

Coastal dunes are an essential part of beach-dune systems. Dunes systems have their own intrinsic values and provide a range of goods and services, including the protection of tangible goods located on the shoreline affected by waves, storms, and sea erosion. Dunes also act as repositories of biodiversity that have their exclusive habitat in dune communities, and the aesthetic value of dune landscapes derived from unique plant communities and landforms is also of great importance. Nevertheless, dune systems on developed coasts suffered a drastic decline in geomorphological and ecological quality throughout the last century. Catalonia (Spain, NW Mediterranean Sea) is no exception, and the coastal dune systems which were present in the early 20th century have now disappeared due to urbanization. The regeneration of dune systems is of crucial importance in this context. The aim of this study is to assess the current status of dune systems in Catalonia in order to determine their future prospects based on beach characteristics, those beaches likely to host dunes being determined according to their width and sediment type. The results of our study show that nowadays most dune systems in Catalonia are not developed due to human pressure on the beaches. Only those beaches located in the natural protected areas in Roses Bay, Baix Ter Bay, the Llobregat Delta, and especially the Ebro Delta, have the right characteristics to host well-developed dune systems. That said, 30% of sandy beaches in Catalonia have a width of over 35 metres; wide enough to host well-developed dune systems if appropriate integrated beach management is applied. The methodology used in this research also provide a tool to assess which are the beaches that can host dunes on other developed shores in the Mediterranean area.     

Morphodynamic responses of nourished beaches in SW Spain

Coastal erosion in SW Spain is affecting man-made structures and beaches that represent an important economic resource in the area. In the last decade the Spanish government carried out several nourishment works that have limited durability. Most of the artificial beach fills consist of a spill of natural dredged sand on the visible beach, leading to a flat, artificial berm with an important seaward slope and narrow foreshore. As a result, the initial dissipative profile was transformed into a fully reflective one. A beach monitoring program was carried out to record morphological evolution after the nourishment works. Several field assessments of disturbance depth were also made to characterize beach morphodynamics of a nourished beach (Rota) and a natural dissipative one (Tres Piedras), whose slope was similar to the pre-nourishment gradient of Rota beach. Natural dissipative beaches were characterized by spilling breakers that did not significantly affect bottom sand. The severe erosion recorded in the nourished zones was related to the new morphodynamic regime acting on these beaches, which was controlled by high erosive plunging breakers associated with high foreshore slopes. In conclusion, other nourishment practices should be used, better adapted to the natural beach morphodynamics of the zone, taking also into account the original grain size and density of the beach sands, in order to obtain more durable artificial beaches.     

Evolution of a beach nourishment project using dredged sand from navigation channel,Dunkirk, northern France

The largest beach replenishment project ever in France was completed in February 2014 in Dunkirk on the coast of northern France. A volume of 1.5 × 10⁶ m³ of sand extracted from a navigation channel was placed on the beach to build up a 150 to 300 m wide supratidal platform in front of a dike, called « Digue des Alliés », which protects several residential districts of Dunkirk from marine flooding. High resolution topographic surveys were carried out during 2½ years to monitor beach morphological changes, completed by a hydrodynamic field experiment conducted in February 2016. Approximately ?138,200 m³ of sand, corresponding to 9.2% of the initial nourishment volume, were eroded over the nourishment area in about 2 years. An obvious decrease in erosion eastward with a shift from erosion to accumulation was observed, suggesting an eastward redistribution of sand. This longshore sand drift is beneficial for the eastward beach of Malo-les-Bains where most of the recreational activities are concentrated. Hydrodynamic measurements showed that waves and wave-induced currents play a major role on the longshore sand redistribution compared to tidal flows. Strong relationships were observed between cumulative offshore wave power and beach volume change during distinct beach survey periods (R² = 0.79 to 0.87), with more significant correlations for northerly waves. A slight decrease in erosion during the second year compared to the first year after nourishment suggests that the loss of sand should decrease after an initial phase of rapid readjustment of the beach shape towards equilibrium.     

Determination of set-back lines on eroding coasts. Example of the beaches of the Gulf of Lions (French Mediterranean Coast)

The study presented here describes a method for defining set-back lines along eroding coasts. The method (a mathematical model) combines the long-term shoreline retreat trend with short-term shoreline erosion (during storms). Simulations are carried out for 2030 and compared with the beach width to determine whether the shoreline is likely to shift onshore. The mathematical model is applied to the Frontignan and Carnon beaches (south of France). Both sites possess hard engineering coastal structures and downdrift erosion on the natural beaches. The set-back lines indicate that beaches with groynes are generally wide enough to resist shoreline retreat, while the downdrift “natural” beaches are not. We discuss the possible utilisation of set-back line estimations.     

Pre- and post-beach response to engineering hard structures using Landsat time-series at the northwestern part of the Nile delta,Egypt

Analyses have been undertaken to examine shoreline positions established from remote sensing data along the northwestern part of the Nile delta from the Abu Qir Bay to Gamasa embayment (∼143 km length). The image data used (MSS, TM and ETM+ sensors) are acquired at unequal intervals between 1972 and 2006, i.e., covering a time span of 34 years. Automated waterline positions extracted from Landsat satellite images during this period of time were computer generated. A digital shoreline analysis software was used to calculate the annual rate of beach changes at 1,432 cross-shore transects prior to (1972–1990) and after protection (1993–2006). On comparison, rates estimated from three statistical approaches (the end point rate, the Jackknife and a weighted linear regression) at corresponding positions are successfully validated with those measured from ground survey. Before protection, results reveal longshore patterns wherein erosion along a coastal stretch gives way to accretion in an adjacent stretch, refining the sub-cells previously identified within the littoral system of the delta. Maximum shoreline retreat occurs along the Rosetta promontory (−138.52 m/year) and along the central bulge of the delta at Burullus headland (−6.07 m/year). In contrast areas of shoreline accretion exist within saddles or embayments between the promontories at west Abu Qir Bay (20.04 m/year), Abu Khashaba saddle (16.17 m/year) and Gamasa embayment (20.68 m/year). These rates of changes have been significantly altered by the construction of intensive shoreline protective structures built from 1990 to combat areas of rapid erosion at both the Rosetta promontory and Burullus–Baltim headland, ∼15-km length in total.     

Coastal dune development and sand drifting management along an artificial shoreline: the case of Dunkirk harbour,northern France

Harbour development along the low-lying coastline of northern France necessitated the construction of a seaport protruding into the sea. The extension of the port of Dunkirk resulted in the creation of an artificial shoreline consisting of a sea dike fronted by a beach, connected to a jetty protecting the seaport access. This study illustrates how harbour infrastructure can give rise to new kinds of aeolian landforms: e.g. the spontaneous initiation of aeolian dunes on a seaport dike resulting in specific dune types. However, this coastal dune development induced unexpected sand invasion of harbour infrastructure. The aim of this study was to test the effectiveness of various types of windbreaks on a dike as a means of limiting sand drift and solving sand invasion problems. Seven experimental fences installed in the eastern part of the dike were monitored over an 11 month period. The experimental fences tested in this study demonstrated their effectiveness on an asphalt coated dike. Over the whole survey period, the most efficient fences were those installed close to a sand source, at the beach-dike limit. These experiments will aid the Port of Dunkirk in building a management plan for its shoreline, which is being designed in order to preserve the diversity of landscapes, and to control sand invasion which necessitates costly sand removal operations.     

Coastal retreat and/or advance adjacent to defences in England and Wales

Retreat and advance of shoreline position occurs naturally, and also as a result of defences which are constructed to prevent erosion and flooding. Retreat more commonly manifests itself down-drift of defences due to a sediment deficit causing the coast to become ‘set-back’. Advance normally develops due to sediment accumulation up-drift of a barrier inhibiting longshore drift, resulting in the coast becoming ‘set-forward’. Many examples of set-backs and set-forwards are recorded, but their location, number and cause is not known on a national scale. Using the Futurecoast aerial photographs, approximately 200 localities were identified as set-back or set-forward in England and Wales, with half situated in the Eastern and South East regions of England. Half of the total set-backs or set-forwards were on cliffed coasts, and half on low-lying coasts. Without local knowledge it is difficult to distinguish between set-backs and set-forwards. Set-backs often indicate higher retreat rates, thus threatening cliff-top infrastructure which requires defence upgrade and extensions, as well as raising maintenance costs. Monitoring set-backs is important for shoreline management, because as retreat continues, set-backs evolve and artificial headlands form and grow. This is reinforced by the shift from hard defence policies towards softer engineering approaches, managed realignment and limited intervention.     

Short- and long-term responses of nourishments: Barra-Vagueira coastal stretch,Portugal

Dredged material resulting from deepening and maintenance activities of the Aveiro Harbor inlet channel, northwestern coast of Portugal, has been used to mitigate the erosion trend recorded on nearby beaches (from Barra to Costa Nova Beach) through direct placement of sand by using standard dredge equipment. The disposal activities of dredged material have been undertaken at two main sites: between the south breakwater and the 1st groin of Costa Nova (dumping area 1, DA1) and between the 3rd and the 5th groin of Costa Nova (dumping area 2, DA2).The sand was placed in the nearshore, between the ?2 and ?7 m Chart Datum, CD, contours.In this study, short- and long-term coastal morphologic changes in the sea bottom, in response to several nourishment operations and to the incoming waves, within the dumping area boundaries are investigated based on a data set of hydrographic surveys collected annually, just before and after the nourishments, between 2009 and 2015. Preliminary results describing the main morphologic changes, evolution trends, sediment budget variations, and nourishments performance are discussed using mainly Geographic Information System techniques. Overall, the analysis demonstrates that the short-term losses in the dumping areas (one month of interval) can reach 50% of the nourished volume, revealing a significant movement of the fill material towards offshore. Seasonal variations promoting cross-shore material exchange can also prevail and misrepresent the sediment balances, if the monitoring area is not comprehensive. Furthermore, some bathymetric analysis suggested that longshore transport gradients have moved the fill material from Barra beach to downdrift areas. All the obtained results contribute to the ongoing discussion about the effectiveness of nearshore sand placements especially in context of an energetic environment.     

Physical damage to coastal dunes and ecological impacts caused by vehicle tracks associated with beach camping on sandy shores: a case study from Fraser Island,Australia

As coastal populations expand, demands for recreational opportunities on beaches and coastal dunes grow correspondingly. Although dunes are known to be sensitive to direct human disturbance and provide irreplaceable ecosystem services (e.g. erosion control, critical habitat and nesting sites), dunes serve as campsites for large numbers of people (∼90,000 p.a.) on the ocean-exposed shores of Fraser Island, Australia. Campsites are located in the established dunes and can only be accessed with 4WD vehicles along tracks cut directly from the beach through the foredunes. Here we quantified the extent of physical damage to foredunes caused by this practice, and tested whether human-induced physical changes to foredunes translate into biological effects. Of the 124 km of ocean-exposed beaches, 122 km (98%) are open to vehicles driven on the beaches, and camping zones cover 28.7 km or 23% of the dunes. A total of 235 vehicle tracks are cut across the foredunes at an average density of eight tracks per km of beach. These tracks have effectively destroyed one-fifth (20.2%) of the dune front in camping zones, deeply incising the dune-beach interface. There is evidence of accelerated erosion and shoreline retreat centred around vehicle tracks, resulting in a “scalloping” of the shoreline. No dune vegetation remains in the tracks and the abundance of ghost crabs (Ocypode spp.) is significantly reduced compared with the abutting dunes. Because current levels of environmental change caused by dune camping may not be compatible with the sustainable use of coastal resources and conservation obligations for the island (listed as a World Heritage Area and gazetted as a National Park), restoration and mitigation interventions are critical. These will require spatial prioritisation of effort, and we present a multi-criteria ranking method, based on quantitative measures of environmental damage and ecological attributes, to objectively target rehabilitation and conservation measures. Ultimately, coastal management needs to develop and implement strategies that reconcile demands for human recreation, including beach camping, with conservation of coastal dune ecosystems.     

Integrated shoreline management and tourism development on the cross-border World Heritage Site: A case study from the Curonian spit (Lithuania/Russia)

The varied and very dynamic landscape with a high biological diversity is a distinctive feature of the Curonian spit at the regional scale. Throughout the 20th century the main morphodynamic trend in the littoral of the Curonian spit was shoreline grading on the lagoon side, whereas on the marine side the increasing erosion at the foot of the spit, and increasing accretion at the head of the spit prevailed. The results of a discriminant analysis (Wilkes’ λ = 0.001626 and F = 29.267 when p < 0.001) show that sites with prevailing erosion, accretion and sediment input from the drifting dunes form regular inter-related spatial structures in the littoral with distinctive resulting discontinuities of the sediment drift along the lagoon coast. Dune littoral cells are characterized by Aeolian sediment input and distribution ‘down-drift’, (usually northwards) from the source. The most likely changes in the current development trends of the lagoon shore zone of the Curonian spit are related to expected climate changes and further slowing down of the dune drift. The probability of storms and ice-drift events, and their impact on coasts is expected to increase as a result of climate change. The dune advance will gradually slow down, and with it, the sand input to the coastal zone will decline. In this paper, we define integrated shoreline management as a system of long-term shoreline management measures, which is based on a littoral cell approach and aimed at harmonizing human activity in the coastal zone with the natural development of the shoreline. We propose an integrated management program for the lagoon shoreline of the Curonian spit, which is site-specific for each littoral cell as a coastal management unit. Drifting dunes and seaside beaches are the natural amenities, which are best known and best appreciated on the Curonian spit by 49% of the respondents representing the total Lithuanian population. A responsible tourism development should be considered as the key means for proper appreciation of the drifting dunes and natural coasts by society, which means to acknowledge and cherish the aesthetic and conservation values of dune and coastal landscapes of the Curonian spit as a World Heritage Site. There are at least two pre-conditions for this: (1) to provide visitors with sufficient information about diverse values and functions of the Curonian dunes and coasts within a broader regional and global heritage conservation context; (2) to enable tourists to enjoy the most impressive dune and coastal landscapes at close range. In this paper we propose to encourage active dune tourism, to reintroduce grazing into the Curonian dune areas, to restore and to preserve the most impressive landscapes of the highest white drifting dunes by bringing the blown out sand from the leeward foot of the dunes back to the crest artificially.     

Experimental study on dynamic equilibrium of headland-bay beaches

A dynamic equilibrium bay (DEB) is an embayment with continuous sediment supply and its shoreline planform can remain stable over a long period of time without erosion or accretion. For coastal conservation of sandy headland-bay beaches (HBB), the concept of using a static equilibrium bay (SEB) is well known, but that for DEB has received little attention. Moreover, an empirical equation for the stability of a DEB is not yet available. Experiments on DEB shape that aim to derive new coefficients in the parabolic bay shape equation (PBSE) for DEB are now being conducted in the laboratory. The work commences from an initial artificial HBB in static equilibrium with sediment supply source from the lee of an upcoast headland. A final equilibrium planform is obtained for the condition with a specific wave obliquity and sediment supply rate until no further shoreline change is found. In order to fit the PBSE for a DEB, a new parameter called SSR (sediment supply ratio) that represents the ratio of sediment supply rate from the source and the potential longshore sediment transport rate is introduced to quantify the balance of sediment to the bay. Alternative C coefficients in the PBSE for DEB, which include wave obliquity and the SSR, are then calculated. These new coefficients for DEB can now be used to evaluate the influence of sediment supply from a riverine source on a DEB and to classify its equilibrium status for planning sediment management strategies in coastal conservation.     

Shoreline rotation and response to nourishment of a gravel embayed beach using a low-cost video monitoring technique: San Michele-Sassi Neri,Central Italy

On beaches where natural shoreline variability is significant, beach nourishment is a useful engineering method to augment the dry beach and protect infrastructure and/or unstable cliffs. In this study, a low-cost video monitoring system is used to monitor the shoreline response to a nourishment operation on a dynamic gravel embayed beach in Central Italy. Video-derived shorelines were collected over a 15-month period to measure the evolution of the beach with regards to three specific parameters: the dry beach width, the dry beach area and the beach orientation. Moderate increases in the dry beach width of 3.6 m and 6.7 m across the embayment were observed in response to two different gravel nourishments of approximately 40,000 m³ and 46,000 m³ respectively. The orientation of the beach meanwhile was found to rotate rapidly in the clockwise direction and more gradually in the counter-clockwise direction. Analyses of individual storm events suggest these rapid clockwise rotations are caused by ESE storms, which result in beach retreat particularly at the southern end. The combination of an overall narrow beach width and a clockwise beach orientation is observed to cause a cliff erosion event at a vulnerable point along the embayment.     

Inventory and conservation assessment for the management of coastal dunes,Veneto coasts,Italy

Management of coastal dunes on developed coasts could effectively take advantage of comprehensive and multitemporal georeferenced data collection, which offers the possibility to relate dune data with the natural and cultural characteristics of the beach and hinterland. The recent implementation of a coastal management geodatabase for the Veneto region provides the opportunity for improving knowledge on coastal dunes on developed littoral as well as a basis for appropriate future coastal planning in the study area. The geodatabase gathers data concerning different physical, evolutionary and human aspects of the coastal zone, with a special focus on coastal dunes. Established foredunes, human-altered dunes and relict dunes are irregularly distributed along 59 km, 38% of the entire coastal length. Their distribution and characteristics are the result of favourable natural conditions as well as long-lasting tourism exploitation (evaluated through an index of Land Use Pressure) and fragmentary and diversified uses of beaches (evaluated through an index of Tourism Pressure on the beach). At the same time, beach/dune nourishment intervention allowed the presence of artificial or sand fenced dunes along 17 km of coast. High dune elevation up to 8–10 m is promoted by the onshore exposition of the beach to dominant wind (from ENE), by stable-to-slowly negative sedimentary budget or by the re-activation of high relict foredunes in the case of shoreline retreat associated with strong negative budget. Present sedimentary budget (evaluated through the code ASPE – Accretion, Stable, Precarious, Erosive) is the tool used for dividing coasts in sedimentary compartments or cells. Past and present sedimentary budget and different human responses to erosive cases (hard and soft interventions) give the foredunes different means to form, grow, survive and evolve over time. The assessment of Human Impact and Active Management Practices on the dunes allows a first evaluation of the Management Effectiveness, which shows strong shortcomings for 81% of the dunes. The great variability of beach usage, human impact and management practises on the different dune stretches highlight the lack of effective and systematic management actions being correctly scheduled and performed.     

A novelty coastal susceptibility assessment method: application to Valdelagrana area (SW Spain)

The main aim of this paper is to present a new methodology to determine coastal susceptibility to erosion and flooding processes by means of an index-based method. The proposed indices take into account physical parameters, such as dune and beach geomorphologic characteristics, shoreline evolution, local significant wave height and relative run-up. The coastal susceptibility has been estimated by elaboration of spatial input data into a GIS environment. The method has been tested in Valdelagrana area, a sandy spit located in SW Spain. The spit includes several morpho-sedimentary environments: sandy beach, discontinuous embryo dunes and foredunes, mud flats and wide areas of vegetated salt marshes. The Northernmost sector is densely urbanized whilst the rest is part of a natural protected area belonging to the Bahía de Cádiz Natural Park. The results obtained showed how the Southern part of the spit presented a high susceptibility due to an elevated erosion rate and the presence of low and discontinuous dune ridges.     

Long term and short term coastal line changes of the Eastern Gulf of Finland. Problems of coastal erosion

Traditionally the coastal zone of the easternmost (Russian) part of the Gulf of Finland has not been considered as an area of active litho- and morphodynamics, but a recent study has shown that the easternmost part of the coastal zone suffers from erosion. Within some coastal segments the shoreline recession rate reaches 2 ?C 2.5?m/year. As well as determining the hydrodynamic reasons for recent erosion acceleration, important geological and geomorphic features of coastal zone which influenced the lithodynamics were established. The Kurortny District of St.Petersburg is located along the northern coast of the Gulf of Finland to the west of the St. Petersburg Flood Protection Facility. It has special importance as a unique recreation zone of the North-West of Russia. Coastal erosion is one of the most serious problems of the area. The analysis of historical materials, archive aerial photographs and modern high-resolution satellite images have shown that advancing parts of coast are almost non-existant with most sections of the coast being eroded and further retreating. Field monitoring between 2004 and 2007 showed intense damage to sandy beaches during autumn and winter storms and progressive erosion of the dunes system. Among the most important natural reasons for the erosion processes are that the coastline is open to storm waves induced by westerly and south-westerly winds, the geological structure of coastal area (easily eroded Quaternary deposits) and a sediment deficit. In some areas sediment loss was the result of the submarine coastal slope morphology (a steep slope of a narrow submarine terrace within the area of sediment drift discharge), with erosion of an alongshore submarine sandy terrace and erosion runnels at the depth 8?C12?m. The situation becomes worse due to anthropogenic impact. The southern coastal zone dynamics are also very active. According to an aerial and satellite photos analysis from 1975?C1976 to 1989?C1990, sandy beaches to the west of Lebyazhye village were eroded up to 30?m, and near Bolshaya Izora village up to 70?m. The comparison of coastine GPSsurvey with old nautical and topographic charts published in the 1980s shows the considerable change.     

The formation of protective dune ridge along the Southeast Baltic Sea coast: historical and social aspects

This paper is based on literature-based studies, as well as material collected by the author over more than 30 years on the shores of the Southeast Baltic Sea. In order to protect roads running along the shoreline from East Prussia to Königsberg, local shore reinforcement works commenced in the fifteenth century, although some individual attempts had been made before. In 1684, M. Ch. Hartknoch theoretically substantiated the necessity for, and methods of, shore reinforcement. The state of the shores deteriorated considerably during the Seven Years War (1756–1763), when woodlands growing along the shores were completely destroyed; hence, nearly 100 km length of the coast of the Kur?i? Nerija (Curonian) sand spit was left without any vegetation. Aeolian sand buried as many as fourteen settlements. This situation forced the authorities to organise maintenance of the coast and the dunes at the governmental level, and to start the formation of an uninterrupted dune ridge. The second half of the nineteenth century and the first half of the twentieth century are notable for the extensive construction of new ports. Along the shores running from the Sambian Peninsula to the Gulf of Riga, eight port engineering structures had been constructed with the intervals of approximately 26 km between the ports of Klaip?da and Liepaja, and every 13 km between Palanga and Pape. Shore management measures were being implemented simultaneously, thus ensuring the functioning of the above-mentioned coastal protection structures and the reduction of impacts upon the shores. In the second half of the twentieth century, ports were dredged and developed significantly. Their entrance channels reduced the long-shore sediment transport. Moreover, total sand reserves in the shore zone also diminished. The processes of erosion of the beaches and the dune ridge made it necessary to actively reinforce the shore. A number of countries passed legal acts governing the protection and use of the shore zone. At the turn of the twenty-first century, the incompatibility of such priorities in human activities as sea transport and recreation with nature protection has become evident. The conflict of interests in the Kur?i? Nerija National Park, the port of Klaip?da, and the resort of Palanga serve as good examples of such incompatibility. The conclusion that can be drawn that in twenty-first century is that the priorities in general coastal management should be as follows: harmonisation of interests among the states and individual fields of activities, as well as measures aimed at neutralisation of negative natural trends (higher frequency of storms, global rise of water level, etc.). The protective beach dune ridge will further play the role of efficient means for reducing shore erosion.     

The value of disappearing beaches: A hedonic pricing model with endogenous beach width

Beach nourishment is a policy used to rebuild eroding beaches with sand dredged from other locations. Previous studies indicate that beach width positively affects coastal property values, but these studies ignore the dynamic features of beaches and the feedback that nourishment has on shoreline retreat. We correct for the resulting attenuation and endogeneity bias in a hedonic property value model by instrumenting for beach width using spatially varying coastal geological features. We find that the beach width coefficient is nearly five times larger than the OLS estimate, suggesting that beach width is a much larger portion of property value than previously thought. We use the empirical results to parameterize a dynamic optimization model of beach nourishment decisions and show that the predicted interval between nourishment projects is closer to what we observe in the data when we use the estimate from the instrumental variables model rather than OLS. As coastal communities adapt to climate change, we find that the long-term net value of coastal residential property can fall by as much as 52% when erosion rate triples and cost of nourishment sand quadruples.     

Reconstruction of an interrupted primary beach plain succession using a Geographical Information System

This study reports on a primary succession on a beach plain on the Dutch Wadden island of Schiermonnikoog. Vegetation succession started in 1959 when a sand dike was constructed to prevent structural erosion of the area by storm floods. Since then the sandy beach behind the dike has been protected from the direct influence of the North Sea. Heavy storms in 1972, however, created a large gap in the dike which has remained open since. Occasional storm floods during winter penetrate deeply into the area and salt water can cover parts of the beach plain for several months. This had a pronounced impact on the vegetation. Vegetation maps for six different years and data from a permanent plot have been used to reconstruct vegetation succession over a 42-yr period. Certain parts of the area seem to have changed little, while others have developed a grassland or scrub cover. The heavy storms and associated processes such as sand blowing, intensive flooding and increased salinity have created a disturbance/stress gradient of progressive and regressive succession across the beach plain. In certain places the vegetation cover has repeatedly been destroyed and succession re-initiated. It is concluded that the different stages of succession and associated diversity of plant species only can persist through the maintenance of the natural dynamics of the area.     

A very unusual ‘groin’, the MV River Princess,Goa, India and its impacts upon tourism

On June 6, 2000, the Merchant Vessel River Princess – dead weight 114,645 tonnes and 261 m in length, grounded on the beach off the Candolim-Sinquerim coast, Goa, India, spilling some 40 tonnes of oil. In the past 10 years it has settled some 10 m into the sea bed and taken in circa 40,000 tonnes of sand. Until the ‘60’s the Goan economy centered on agriculture and fishing with very low key recreation. Over the last three decades it has become heavily reliant upon recreation, with 13 % of GDP arising from this sector. Nine million cubic metres of littoral drift occurs off this beach per annum, with the longshore current broken by rips into a series of circulating cells. The vessel acts as a massive groin so much so that downdrift, erosion of approximately 5 to 10 m/annum (dependent on the monsoon strength) is occurring at the Taj hotel site. Satellite imagery has shown that some 0.13 km² beach loss has occurred since 2001. Downdrift, the beach is circa 20 m wide compared to updrift areas where it exceeds 100 m. Embryo tombola growth has now commenced between shore and ship. In addition to this, the dune system is now seriously out of equilibrium and sand bags, geotextiles etc. are currently in use to combat dune foot erosion. Questionnaires (n?=?111) showed that 37 % of beach users ranked erosion as the top coastal problem. Sixty seven percent of beach users rated scenery as the most important quality of a beach and due to the grounded ship, >60 % rated the scenery as below average, as well as viewing the ship as a source of danger for swimming purposes.     

Geospatial analysis of vulnerable beach-foredune systems from decadal time series of lidar data

Time series of lidar data, acquired over the past decade along the North American East Coast, provide opportunities to gain new insights into 3D evolution of barrier islands and their beach and dune systems. GIS-based per grid cell statistics and map algebra was applied to time series of Digital Surface Models representing two sections of North Carolina barrier islands to quantify elevation change trends, map dynamic and stable locations, identify new and lost buildings, measure relative volume evolution in the beach and foredune systems and analyze shoreline dynamics. Results show a relatively small stable core in both study areas, with beaches and the ocean side of the dunes exhibiting systematic high rates of elevation loss while areas landward from the dunes increase slightly in elevation. Significant number of new homes have been built at locations with very small core surface elevation, and homes built within the shoreline dynamics band have already been lost. The raster-based methodology used in this study can be applied to perform similar analyses in other coastal areas where time series of lidar data are available.