Numerical study of coastal sandbar migration, by hydro-morphodynamical coupling

We present a numerical model based on the hydro-morphodynamical coupling to study coastal sandbar migration. In order to improve both nonlinear and dispersive wave processes in relatively shallow water, we developed a finite element model based on the Legendre polynomials and on the Extended Boussinesq model. This model reproduces the propagation of wave trains with a high degree of accuracy on a greater range of depths than the standard Boussinesq models. We also implemented the Total Variation Diminishing schemes to improve the quality of the computed hydrodynamic fields, especially in areas where sharp flow gradients occurred. The coupled morpho-hydrodynamical model is then used to simulate the migration of real sandbars observed at Rousty beach (Mediterranean French coast). For verification the model results are compared with field measurements obtained from a small-scale field campaign carried out over two years at Rousty beach, and the results of this comparison are thoroughly discussed and analyzed.