Coastal inundation in the north-eastern mediterranean coastal zone due to storm surge events

Low-elevation coastal areas and their populations are at risk during and after the appearance of a storm surge event. Coastal flooding as a result of storm surge events is investigated in this paper for a number of areas around the north-eastern (NE) Mediterranean coastal zone (Adriatic, Aegean and north Levantine seas). The sea level rise (SLR) due to storm surge events is examined for the period 2000?C2004. Wind data, atmospheric pressure and wave data for this period as well as in situ sea elevation measurements (from stations around the Mediterranean coasts) were used. Potential inundation zones were then identified using a 90-m horizontal resolution digital elevation model (DEM). At these zones, the sea surface elevations were calculated for the study period, using the collected data and a 2D storm surge simulation model (1/10^o??1/10^o) output, examining the sea level alteration in specific coastal areas, where in situ measurements are absent and are characterised as ??risky?? in inundation areas, due to their topography. In order to determine the level of storm track implication on major SLR incidents, the trajectories of the respective storm events were computed. The aim of this paper is to investigate the major storm surge events that appeared during the study period, identify the major ??risky?? costal regions along the north-eastern Mediterranean coast and determine their hazard level due to inundation caused by storm surge phenomena. The combination of the risk level determination of an area and the calculation of sea level alteration is an important tool in terms of predicting and protecting the coastal area from extreme meteorological incidents.     

Joint use of data and modeling in coastal wave transformation

In the framework of a research project entitled ??BRISA??BReaking waves and Induced SAnd transport??, a methodology was devised to characterize the waves joining together in-situ measurements and numerical wave propagation models. With this goal in mind, a number of in-situ measurements were made, for selected positions in front of Praia de Faro (South Portugal), during four days (25th to 28th March, 2009) by using different types of equipments (e.g., resistive wave gauges, pressure sensors, currentmeters and a new prototype pore pressure sensor using optical fibre). Wave records were obtained simultaneously offshore (at a water depth of 11.7?m below mean sea level, MSL) and at the surf and swash zones. The data processing and analysis were made by applying classical time domain techniques. Numerical simulations of the wave propagation between offshore and inshore for the measurement period were performed with two numerical models, a 1D model based on linear theory and a nonlinear Boussinesq-type model, COULWAVE, both forced by the measured offshore wave conditions of 27th March 2009. Comparisons between numerical results and field data for the pressure sensors placed in the surf and swash zones were made and discussed. This approach enables to evaluate the performance of those models to simulate those specific conditions, but also to validate the models by gaining confidence on their use in other conditions.     

Assessment of the effects of a port expansion on algae appearance in a costal bay through mathematical modelling. Application to San Lorenzo Bay (North Spain)

In the last years several episodes of algae appearance affecting bathing areas have been observed in San Lorenzo Bay (north of Spain). The analysis of the collected algae revealed that they might come from near intertidal or shallow subtidal zones due to eutrophication processes or through drift algae movement by the action of marine currents. In the vicinity of this area, the expansion of the Port of Gijón (now under construction) supposes a significant modification of the coastal geometry. The magnitude of such an expansion could cause changes in the patterns of currents in the bay, with the consequent alteration of the observed algal appearance phenomena. A mathematical modelling study to evaluate the risk of generation of eutrophication processes in the San Lorenzo Bay area and the transport of drift algae from near sea bed areas was developed. This study required the use of different hydrodynamic models in order to characterize the currents caused by tides, winds and waves. The eutrophication processes in the bay were analyzed with a depth-averaged two-dimensional eutrophication model which deals with eight water quality variables. Calibration of model parameters with the observed data from a field survey was performed. A reasonable agreement with the field measurements was achieved. Model results showed that the maximum phytoplankton concentrations were below eutrophic conditions. Although, the port expansion has led to an increment of phytoplankton concentrations, chlorophyll a levels were not representative of eutrophic conditions. To analyse the transport of drift algae, a methodology based on the utilization of a two-dimensional model which solves the depth-averaged advection-diffusion equation considering seaweed as a conservative tracer was developed and applied. Numerical modelling allowed the identification of the coastal areas that seems to be the source of the seaweed found on the beach. It was also proven that port expansion does not significantly affect drift algae transport in the area.     

Fast Ferry Traffic as a Qualitatively New Forcing Factor of Environmental Processes in Non-Tidal Sea Areas: A Case Study in Tallinn Bay,Baltic Sea

The impact of wake wash from high-speed ferries on the coastal environment in non-tidal seas is analysed in terms of wave energy and power, and properties of the largest waves. Shown is that hydrodynamic loads caused by heavy high-speed traffic may play a decisive role not only in low-energy coasts but also in certain areas with high wind wave activity. For example, ship-generated waves form, at least, about 5–8% from the total wave energy and about 18–35% from the wave power in the coastal areas of Tallinn Bay exposed to dominating winds. The periods of wake waves from high-speed ships frequently are much larger than dominating periods of wind waves. The leading waves typically have a height of about 1 m and a period of 10–15 s. Such waves extremely seldom occur in natural conditions in many regions of semi-enclosed seas. They cause unusually high hydrodynamic loads in the deeper part of the nearshore. The fast ferry traffic thus is a qualitatively new forcing component of vital impact on the local ecosystem. It is demonstrated that wakes from high-speed ferries may trigger considerable changes of the existing balance of coastal processes. Owing to their low decay rates combined with their exceptional compactness after crossing many kilometres of the sea surface, such wakes may cause considerable remote impact of the ship traffic. This feature has to be addressed in the analysis of the impact of harbours and associated ship traffic in the neighbourhood of vulnerable areas.     

Evolution trend analysis of Nearshore seabed in Yangshan Deep-water Port,China

Yangshan Deep-water Port, the largest deep-water port in China, is located in the sea area of the Qiqu Archipelago adjacent to Hangzhou Bay. It goes deep into the ocean and far from the continent, and plays a key role in the economy and shipping of China. The evolution and stability of the seabed in the Yangshan Deep-water Port have potential influences on the security of port engineering. Based on GIS spatial analysis technology and MATLAB numerical analysis software, this study predicted the short-term evolution trend of the Yangshan Port frontier seabed terrain through the establishment of a modified power function model. The research included: (1) a systematic analysis of the characteristics of the terrain evolution before (1960–1997) and after (1998–2008) the construction of Yangshan Port by using terrain data from the study area; (2) based on the historical erosion and deposition characteristics of Yangshan Port, an improved power function model was established and the reliability of the model was validated to simulate the study area’s frontier seabed evolution trend in 2015. The results show that: (1) before the construction of Yangshan Port, the seabed in the study area had a narrower variation in erosion and deposition, with the ratio of erosion and deposition of the stable region, erosion area and deposition area being 53.7 %, 18.3 % and 28.0 % respectively, overall the area showed a relatively stable erosion and deposition character; (2) after the construction of the port, the erosion and deposition variation ranges of the seabed were sharply amplified, obviously due to man-made interference being stronger than natural evolution. The stable region of erosion and deposition was only 22.7 %, erosion area was 53.8 %, and the deposition area was 23.4 %, which showed an erosion intensity that was larger than the deposition intensity; (3) the established improved power function model can be used in the short-term prediction of the Yangshan Port frontier seabed evolution trend with high prediction accuracy. The results can aid in decision making with regard to coastal protection and prospective construction schemes around Yangshan Port.     

Numerical study of wave–current–vegetation interaction in coastal waters

Research on interactions among wave, current, and vegetation has received increasing attention. An explicit depth-averaged hydrodynamic model coupled with a wave spectral model (CMS-wave) was proposed in this study in order to simulate the wave and wave-induced current in coastal waters. The hydrodynamic model was based on the finite volume method while the intercell flux was computed by employing the Harten–Lax–van Leer approximate Riemann solver to investigate the dry-to-wet interface, and the drag force of vegetation was modeled as the sink terms in the momentum equations. The CMS-wave model was used to investigate the non-breaking and the breaking random waves propagation in vegetation fields. Afterwards, an empirical wave energy dissipation term with plant effect was derived to represent the resistance induced by aquatic vegetation in the wave-action balance equation. The established model was calibrated and validated with both the experimental and field data. The results showed that the wave height decreased significantly along the wave propagation direction in the presence of vegetations. The sensitivity analysis for the plant density, the wave height, and the water depth were performed by comparing the numerical results for the wave height attenuation. In addition, wave and wave-induced current through a finite patch of vegetation in the surf zone were investigated as well. The strong radiation stress gradient could be produced due to the variation of the energy dissipation by vegetation effect in the nearshore zone, which impacted the direction and amplitude of the longshore current. The calculated results showed that the coupling model had good performance in predicting wave propagation and the current over vegetated water regions.     

Coastal dune development and sand drifting management along an artificial shoreline: the case of Dunkirk harbour,northern France

Harbour development along the low-lying coastline of northern France necessitated the construction of a seaport protruding into the sea. The extension of the port of Dunkirk resulted in the creation of an artificial shoreline consisting of a sea dike fronted by a beach, connected to a jetty protecting the seaport access. This study illustrates how harbour infrastructure can give rise to new kinds of aeolian landforms: e.g. the spontaneous initiation of aeolian dunes on a seaport dike resulting in specific dune types. However, this coastal dune development induced unexpected sand invasion of harbour infrastructure. The aim of this study was to test the effectiveness of various types of windbreaks on a dike as a means of limiting sand drift and solving sand invasion problems. Seven experimental fences installed in the eastern part of the dike were monitored over an 11 month period. The experimental fences tested in this study demonstrated their effectiveness on an asphalt coated dike. Over the whole survey period, the most efficient fences were those installed close to a sand source, at the beach-dike limit. These experiments will aid the Port of Dunkirk in building a management plan for its shoreline, which is being designed in order to preserve the diversity of landscapes, and to control sand invasion which necessitates costly sand removal operations.     

Wave hydrodynamics around a multi-functional artificial reef at Leirosa

This paper describes an application of the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model to study the wave hydrodynamics in the vicinity of a multi-functional artificial reef (MFAR). This reef is under investigation and consists of a supplementary protection solution for the Leirosa sand dune system located at South of Figueira da Foz, on the Portuguese West coast. Such installation near the coastline is expected to contribute to enhance the surfing conditions in the area, protect the sand dune system in the surroundings of Leirosa beach, and increase its environmental value. Numerical calculations with the COULWAVE model were performed for four test cases, considering two reef geometries (differing in the reef angle) and two incident wave conditions (storm condition and a common wave condition). Comparisons between the results obtained, in terms of wave heights and breaking line positions allow us to assess the influence of the reef on the hydrodynamics near the beach and around the reef. Moreover, the reef performance was analysed in terms of surfability and coastal protection. The surfability parameters (breaker height, Iribarren number and peel angle) were calculated for each test case using the numerical wave heights, wave directions and wave breaking positions. Comparisons of parameters allow characterizing the most appropriate configuration of the reef to improve the surfing conditions in the study area. A methodology based on numerical free surface elevations and horizontal velocity components was developed to calculate wave directions, since this is not a direct output of the COULWAVE model. Concerning coastal protection, analyses of the mean currents around the reef were used together with observations of the velocity cells near the shoreline as an indication of the sediment transport.     

An application of GIS and coastal geomorphology for large scale assessment of coastal erosion and management: a case study of Ghana

Coastal erosion poses serious threat to life and properties along Ghana??s coast. This is because major industries, urban settlements, recreational facilities, heritage and conservation sites are located few metres from the coast. In spite of this threat, management strategies, both past and present, remain an ??ad hoc?? and site specific. Limited attention has been given to large scale assessment and investigation to detect the rate of coastal recession and the size of land lost to the sea to inform integrated management plan and to formulate sustainable management strategies to deal with the problem. This paper provides large scale assessment of coastal recession in Ghana through field investigation, applied coastal geomorphology and GIS techniques to selected case study areas. The assessment covered 203?km out of the 540?km coastline of Ghana. Results of the assessment indicate that coastal erosion is very substantial and wide spread along the coast, but the rate of recession varies across the entire coastline. Significant amounts of losses of settlements have been experienced in some localities in the eastern coast (Keta and Ada) and the central coast (Accra, Shama and Sekondi-Takoradi). In some areas, coastal defences have been built to reduce the impacts, yet many areas are still very vulnerable. Interestingly, the paper identified that the high rates of retreat recorded in many areas have yet to cause major risks in some local communities because of the presence of a buffer of largely undeveloped land that has existed historically between the shoreline and the developments. However, recent increase in coastal tourism in Ghana has led to ??scramble?? for purchase of these buffer lands for development, which increase the risk. Ghana has the opportunity to use education and land use planning to keep the coastline clear of major developments and avoid the temptation of engaging in costly cycle of development-risk-defence experienced in many countries including the UK and the Netherlands. The paper recommends that Ghana should adopt the UK SMP, which has progressively moved away from the traditional re-active and parochial approaches of providing localised hard-engineered coastal defence work to solve what was perceived to be a local problem, to a more pro-active and holistic approach that take full account of coastal dynamics, interrelationships of coastal systems, knock-on effects, environment concerns and developments at the backshore.     

Bayesian hierarchical spatio-temporal modelling of trends and future projections in the ocean wave climate with a \text{ CO }_2 regression component

Bad weather and rough seas continue to be a major cause for ship losses and is thus a significant contributor to the risk to maritime transportation. This stresses the importance of taking severe sea state conditions adequately into account, with due treatment of the uncertainties involved, in ship design and operation in order to enhance safety. Hence, there is a need for appropriate stochastic models describing the variability of sea states. These should also incorporate realistic projections of future return levels of extreme sea states, taking into account long-term trends related to climate change and inherent uncertainties. The stochastic ocean wave model presented in this paper exploits the flexible framework of Bayesian hierarchical space-time models. It allows modelling of complex dependence structures in space and time and incorporation of physical features and prior knowledge, yet at the same time remains intuitive and easily interpreted. Furthermore, by taking a Bayesian approach, the uncertainties of the model parameters are also taken into account. A regression component with $\text{ CO }_2$ as an explanatory variable has been introduced in order to extract long-term trends in the data. The model has been fitted by monthly maximum significant wave height data for an area in the North Atlantic ocean. The different components of the model will be outlined in the paper, and the results will be discussed. Furthermore, a discussion of possible extensions to the model will be given.     

Vegetation cover influence on the morphology and migration patterns of river mouths

The present study focuses on the effects of vegetation cover changes on the dynamic morphology of seven southeastern Mediterranean river mouths. The methodology used comprised monitoring and mapping by GIS techniques, with data derived from historic aerial photographs, which were applied in the investigation of the morphological spatial and temporal migration patterns of the mouths, and subsequent analysis of the vegetation cover changes influencing them. Vegetation cover adjacent to river mouths influences river mouth morphology through five primary mechanisms: a) bank vegetation; b) dune advancement toward the shoreline; c) changes in the beach??s micro-topography; as well as d) long-term continuous channel migration through permanent vegetation patches; and e) channel switching through permanent vegetation patches. The five mechanisms are part of a system of interactions between channel water flow and fluvial processes; coastal sediment transport and coastal processes; and the evolution of plant communities. In the interplay between these factors they all affect and are being affected by one another. In many river mouths artificial channel diversion is often needed due to uncontrolled channel migration. It is demonstrated that vegetation cover can serve as a mean of ??soft?? channel regulation. Therefore, a better understanding of the five influencing mechanisms may aid in controlling and managing river mouth migration patterns. The study contributes to the knowledge about bank vegetation as a tool of ??soft?? channel regulation and thus can contribute to the improvement of coastal zone management.     

Breakwater control system and structural analysis: physical and numerical modelling (Port of Funchal,Madeira Island,Portugal)

The objective of this work was to analyze the behavior of the Funchal Port (Madeira Island, Portugal) breakwater using physical and numerical models in order to analyze the evolution of the underwater layers, combining information between the two models as well as simulating storm conditions and atypical docking/undocking impacts of cruise ships. Regarding the physical model using a wave generation system, the data collected and the test conditions were addressed considering different scenarios (return periods of 20, 50 and 100 years). It was found that for return periods of 20 years, the behavior of the infrastructure as a whole was stable. For return periods of 50 years, wave overtopping became more frequent and intense, and began to impact the superstructure. For the 100-year return period the behavior of the infrastructure was found to be unstable, with persistent wave overtopping. The morphology of the submerged layers also changed. The main objectives of the numerical model approach were to estimate the natural frequencies of vibration (when materials suffer a considerable modification, a change in their frequencies of vibration can be detected), and to calculate the expected displacements corresponding to cruise ship docking processes (agitation in a protected area) and the associated maximum maritime (agitation in an exposed area) forces. The maximum displacements obtained for the two cases were about 0.03 m, which is a high value. Considering the results obtained from this work, the Port authorities decided to maintain the monitoring program and perform an underwater video inspection.     

Detection of coastal mud odors by loggerhead sea turtles: a possible mechanism for sensing nearby land

For sea turtles, an ability to detect land masses from a considerable distance away, and to distinguish coastal areas from the open sea, might be adaptive. The loggerhead turtle, Caretta caretta, can detect airborne odorants associated with food. To investigate whether sea turtles can also detect odors associated with land, we studied the responses of juvenile loggerheads to odors from coastal mud. Turtles were tested in a water-filled arena in which odorants could be introduced to the air above the water surface. Turtles exposed to air that had passed over a cup containing mud spent more time with their noses out of the water than did control turtles exposed to air that had passed over a cup containing distilled water. The results demonstrate for the first time that loggerheads can detect airborne odorants associated with land, an ability that might play a role in foraging, navigation, or both.     

海水混合和层化对叶绿素a垂直分布的影响

根据长江口海区、近岸浅水区、黄海冷水团海区和水深超过200m的陆架区等四个区域的定点调查获得的数据，分析了温度、盐度与叶绿素a垂直分布的相互关系。结果表明，长江口海区，陆源径流与海水混合不充分，表层营养盐含量较高，表层叶绿素a含量高于中下水层。近岸浅水区的苏北近岸海水垂向没有温跃层和盐跃层，叶绿素a的垂向分布也均匀，东海西部沿岸出现逆温跃层和逆盐跃层，海水垂直混合不充分，叶绿素a含量(6．72mg／m^3)在10m深水域最高。黄海冷水团海区海水的垂直混合不充分，叶绿素a的垂直变化显著，高值区出现在温跃层下方(4．37mg／m^3)。水深超过200m的陆架区，温度的阶梯状结构、营养盐跃层、光照等因素共同导致整个水层叶绿素a含量普遍较低。同时，结合历史资料分析认为，海水的混合、温度和盐度的层化将影响营养盐的浓度和分布，从而影响海水中叶绿素a的垂直分布。     

使用底栖和浮游桡足类生物测试评估沉积物修复方案的效果

三丁基锡（TBT）是一种常见于船舶防污涂料中的有机锡化合物。尽管该化学物已于2008年被禁用,但在ports和港口等海上交通区域仍可检出致毒水平（浓度）的TBT。一项补救方案在新西兰的一个港口实施,以将TBT和铜的浓度降低到可接受的（浓度）值。这项研究使用分析化学和桡足类生物测试相结合的方法评估了该方案的有效性。在港口内的三个空间梯度上采集沉积物和水样,并在修复前后测定了有机锡和金属含量。利用底栖和浮游桡足类生物测试估算了沉积物和淘析样品的毒性。虽然底泥样品的急性毒性在修复后减少,但对底栖桡足类的繁殖率仍有影响。本研究所采用的方法有望评估沿海地区修复过程的效果。     

Coastal Langmuir circulations induce phase-locked modulation of bathymetric stress

Environmental Fluid Mechanics - The ocean boundary layer (OBL) is forced by atmosphere-ocean and sea ice-ocean momentum fluxes, wave dynamics, and buoyancy; in coastal zones, OBL dynamics are...     

Bimodal orientation and the occurrence of temporary reverse bird migration during autumn in south Scandinavia

Extensive ringing data from a coastal site (Falsterbo Bird Observatory) in southwesternmost Sweden were used to investigate the occurrence of reverse autumn migration among 20 passerine bird species of widely different migration categories. The data demonstrate that reverse migration is a widespread and regular phenomenon among nocturnal as well as diurnal migrants and among irruptive migrants, temperate zone migrants, and long-distance migrants destined for tropical winter quarters. The reoriented movements were directed approximately opposite to the normal migration direction, i.e. between NNW and ENE from the coast and towards inland. Median distances of reverse movements varied between 9 and 65 km. Some individuals of irruptive and partial migrants settled to winter in the reverse direction. Bird species with relatively small fat reserves at capture were more likely to perform reverse migratory movements than species with larger fat deposits. In two species birds performing forward migration were significantly heavier within 10 days after capture than individuals performing reverse movements. The reoriented movements probably are of adaptive significance for birds confronted with the sea and pre-disposed to refuelling during migration. A bimodal orientation mechanism will bring the birds from an area with high competition for food and high predation risk to more suitable resting and feeding grounds before resuming migration in the forward direction and crossing the barrier. Received: 11 July 1995/Accepted after revision: 19 November 1995     

Discrimination of ocean wave features by hatchling loggerhead sea turtles, Caretta caretta

At the beginning of their offshore migration, hatchling sea turtles orient directly into oceanic waves as they swim away from land. Recent experiments have demonstrated that hatchlings swimming underwater can determine the propagation direction of waves by monitoring the circular movements they experience as waves pass above. During July and August 1993, we studied how loggerhead sea turtle hatchlings (Caretta caretta L.) from the east coast of Florida, USA, responded to a range of wave parameters. We constructed a wave simulator to reproduce in air the circular movements that normally occur beneath small ocean waves. Hatchlings suspended in air and subjected to these orbital movements attempted to orient into simulated waves when periods and amplitudes were similar to those found near the Florida coast. Orbital movements with longer periods (greater than 10 s), however, failed to elicit responses. The results demonstrate that hatchling loggerheads can distinguish between waves with different periods and amplitudes, and that Florida hatchlings respond most strongly to orbital movements closely resembling those of waves that occur near their natal beach. Received: 28 May 1996 / Accepted: 17 September 1996