Enhancing submerged coastal constructions by incorporating multifunctional purposes

Surfing has becoming more and more attractive in the past few decades, constituting nowadays an important source of revenue for many countries with extensive coastlines. For this purpose and also for environmental reasons, the conventional ways of protecting a coastline appear to entail some disadvantages. An innovative and interesting way of improving surfing capacities and contributing to protect a local coastal zone is by means of multifunctional artificial reefs. A multifunctional artificial reef (MFAR) is a submerged structure that serves several purposes; in particular, it may enhance the surfing possibilities and the environmental value of the local area. This structure has some promising new aspects, too: first, it provides an unimpaired visual amenity; second, it offers tourist and economic benefits by improving the surfing conditions; third, it can enhance the environmental value of the area where it is built, and fourth, if designed properly, the down drift erosion can be minimal. An appropriate reef design in terms of ‘surfability’, i.e. the possibility to surf a wave, for the Leirosa beach, located to the south of Figueira da Foz, midway along Portugal’s West Atlantic coast, has been investigated. In order to achieve the best design several steps were conducted. First, the performance of the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model is tested with experimental data. Next, this numerical model is used to define the best values for three design parameters: reef angle; geometry of the reef (without or with a platform), and horizontal dimensions for the appropriate geometry. A preliminary design was achieved step by step, making use of the theory and of the state of the art of multifunctional reefs. This reef geometry is used in the numerical study. In terms of ‘surfability’ and for the conditions of the local coastline of Leirosa, the following values were found for the main parameters: a reef angle of 66°; a structure height of 3.20 m; a reef geometry composed of a delta without a platform; a reef submergence of 1.50 m, and a structure seaward slope of 1:10.     

Designing a multifunctional artificial reef: studies on the influence of parameters with most influence in the vertical plane

Multifunctional artificial reefs are submerged breakwaters that serve several purposes. As well as protecting the local coastline, they enhance surfing possibilities and/or increase the environmental value of the area where they are situated. Multifunctional artificial reefs (MFARs) have some promising new aspects, too: first, they provide an unimpaired visual amenity, and second, they can offer tourist and economic benefits by improving the surfing conditions. Regarding the functionality of an MFAR, much research has been carried out on surfability, i.e. whether a wave is good for surfers. However, no research has yet been done on the influence of the submergence and the length of the reef slope on the breaker type, even though this is important for the design of the reef in terms of surfability. A preliminary design was achieved step by step, making use of the theory and state of the art of multifunctional artificial reefs (Voorde et al. 2009a, 2009b). This reef geometry was then used as an initial design in physical and numerical tests. These were performed to ascertain the capacity of a multifunctional reef to serve as a submerged breakwater and so protect the local coastline of Leirosa, Portugal, and improve the local surfing possibilities. This paper describes the numerical study conducted to analyze the influences of the main relevant parameters in the vertical plane, namely: the height, the submergence, and the length and slope of the reef. The investigation was conducted using the COBRAS-UC numerical model in the vertical plane and the main results and conclusions are described and presented; a brief discussion and some recommendations for future work are also included.     

Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves: a mathematics-inspired experiment

Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied experimentally in a Hele-Shaw configuration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models with linear momentum damping are adequately capturing the large scale nonlinear wave motion. Subsequently, we show that the four types of wave breaking observed at real-world beaches also emerge on Hele-Shaw laboratory beaches, albeit in idealized forms. Finally, an experimental parameter study is undertaken to quantify the formation of quasi-steady beach morphologies due to nonlinear, breaking waves: berm or dune, beach and bar formation are all classified. Our research reveals that the Hele-Shaw beach configuration allows a wealth of experimental and modelling extensions, including benchmarking of forecast models used in the coastal engineering practice, especially for shingle beaches.     

Possible impact of sea-level rise on some habitat types at the Baltic coast of Denmark

According to estimates from the Danish Meteorological Institute global warming until 2080 may cause a relative sea-level rise in Danish waters of 33–46 cm. In the present paper the possible impact of a sea-level rise of this magnitude on coastal habitat types is discussed for three case studies, based on previous investigations of vegetation, topography and soil of localities at the Baltic coast of Denmark. The case studies include the following types of localities and habitats: (1) an off-shore barrier complex: sandy beach, sand dune, geolittoral, brackish, low-tidal meadow, reed bed; (2) a protected bay: geolittoral, brackish meadow, coastal grassland; (3) a dune area: mobile and fixed dune communities, and adjoining sea wall: coastal grassland. In the geolittoral meadow and coastal grassland habitats the sea-level rise is expected to cause a horizontal displacement of vegetation zones and a reduction in area, depending on accretion rate (sedimentation, peat formation), local topography and inland land-use. In the beach and sand dune habitats the sea-level rise is expected to cause a change in groundwater level, influencing slack vegetation, and a change in the erosion/accretion pattern, resulting in landward rebuilding of the mobile dune as well as in a more or less diffuse inland sand drift, causing destabilization of fixed dune vegetation.     

A conceptual snapsot of a big coastal dune aquifer: Magilligan,Northern Ireland

The Magilligan sand spit dune field is situated on the eastern mouth of Lough Foyle in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland. It is a large triangular-shaped site some 7 km by 4 km by 1.5 km wide (about 800 ha) and maintains areas, particularly in the eastern part, with slacks that regularly flood in winter. The size of the system acts as a buffer to external drivers due to the large volume of groundwater stored, the longer travel distances and lower hydraulic gradients. However, unlike many other coastal dune sites with humid dune slacks in the British Isles the sand is not wholly underlain by silt and clay, as raised beach sand and gravel deposits are in contact with the sand aquifer in some places. A preliminary water balance suggests that the majority of the discharge from the sand aquifer occurs via the underlying raised beach deposits and only a small amount discharges directly from the sand aquifer beneath the foredunes. Available water level monitoring is skewed towards the wetter end of the dune system; no significant short-term water level trends are apparent. The data also indicate that recharge regularly takes place within the sand aquifer interspersed by periods of groundwater level recession.     

Biophysical feedback mediates effects of invasive grasses on coastal dune shape

Vegetation at the aquatic-terrestrial interface can alter landscape features through its growth and interactions with sediment and fluids. Even similar species may impart different effects due to variation in their interactions and feedbacks with the environment. Consequently, replacement of one engineering species by another can cause significant change in the physical environment. Here we investigate the species-specific ecological mechanisms influencing the geomorphology of U.S. Pacific Northwest coastal dunes. Over the last century, this system changed from open, shifting sand dunes with sparse vegetation (including native beach grass, Elymus mollis), to densely vegetated continuous foredune ridges resulting from the introduction and subsequent invasions of two nonnative grass species (Ammophila arenaria and Ammophila breviligulata), each of which is associated with different dune shapes and sediment supply rates along the coast. Here we propose a biophysical feedback responsible for differences in dune shape, and we investigate two, non-mutually exclusive ecological mechanisms for these differences: (1) species differ in their ability to capture sand and (2) species differ in their growth habit in response to sand deposition. To investigate sand capture, we used a moveable bed wind tunnel experiment and found that increasing tiller density increased sand capture efficiency and that, under different experimental densities, the native grass had higher sand capture efficiency compared to the Ammophila congeners. However, the greater densities of nonnative grasses under field conditions suggest that they have greater potential to capture more sand overall. We used a mesocosm experiment to look at plant growth responses to sand deposition and found that, in response to increasing sand supply rates, A. arenaria produced higher-density vertical tillers (characteristic of higher sand capture efficiency), while A. breviligulata and E. mollis responded with lower-density lateral tiller growth (characteristic of lower sand capture efficiency). Combined, these experiments provide evidence for a species-specific effect on coastal dune shape. Understanding how dominant ecosystem engineers, especially nonnative ones, differ in their interactions with abiotic factors is necessary to better parameterize coastal vulnerability models and inform management practices related to both coastal protection ecosystem services and ecosystem restoration.     

Inventory and conservation assessment for the management of coastal dunes,Veneto coasts,Italy

Management of coastal dunes on developed coasts could effectively take advantage of comprehensive and multitemporal georeferenced data collection, which offers the possibility to relate dune data with the natural and cultural characteristics of the beach and hinterland. The recent implementation of a coastal management geodatabase for the Veneto region provides the opportunity for improving knowledge on coastal dunes on developed littoral as well as a basis for appropriate future coastal planning in the study area. The geodatabase gathers data concerning different physical, evolutionary and human aspects of the coastal zone, with a special focus on coastal dunes. Established foredunes, human-altered dunes and relict dunes are irregularly distributed along 59 km, 38% of the entire coastal length. Their distribution and characteristics are the result of favourable natural conditions as well as long-lasting tourism exploitation (evaluated through an index of Land Use Pressure) and fragmentary and diversified uses of beaches (evaluated through an index of Tourism Pressure on the beach). At the same time, beach/dune nourishment intervention allowed the presence of artificial or sand fenced dunes along 17 km of coast. High dune elevation up to 8–10 m is promoted by the onshore exposition of the beach to dominant wind (from ENE), by stable-to-slowly negative sedimentary budget or by the re-activation of high relict foredunes in the case of shoreline retreat associated with strong negative budget. Present sedimentary budget (evaluated through the code ASPE – Accretion, Stable, Precarious, Erosive) is the tool used for dividing coasts in sedimentary compartments or cells. Past and present sedimentary budget and different human responses to erosive cases (hard and soft interventions) give the foredunes different means to form, grow, survive and evolve over time. The assessment of Human Impact and Active Management Practices on the dunes allows a first evaluation of the Management Effectiveness, which shows strong shortcomings for 81% of the dunes. The great variability of beach usage, human impact and management practises on the different dune stretches highlight the lack of effective and systematic management actions being correctly scheduled and performed.     

Beach vulnerability assessment of a protected area of the Northern Campania coast (Southern Italy)

A detailed and multidisciplinary study of physical and biotic factors of a coastal sector of southern Italy, the Pineta della foce del Garigliano SCI (Site of Community Importance) area, has been carried out in the frame of the European research project LIFE + Nature & Biodiversity PROVIDUNE. We evaluated the degree of dunes vulnerability (Dune Vulnerability Index, DVI) and sustainable anthropogenic load (carrying capacity) of the emerged beach of the study area, which is largely affected by shoreline retreat and degradation of dune habitat. The values of about 0.6 of the DVI in the two key sectors of the study area suggest a high level of vulnerability of beach/dune system due to both natural and human factors. The partial vulnerability index related to the geomorphological condition exhibits the highest values, as a consequence of a coastal system largely affected by recent and present-day beach erosion and severe hydrodynamics processes. Several inadequate human practises have been recognized in the study area whose impact appears to be an important factor in controlling the reduction of the beach-dune system resilience. Integrated analysis of DVI and carrying capacity suggests that the northern and central sectors of the study area have a high level of dune vulnerability due to hydrodynamic and geomorphological factors whereas the human impact can be considered relatively less important. The southern sector of the study area is featured by a well-developed infrastructure system, which is able to assure a sustainable beach occupation. Nevertheless, significant interventions such as dune replacement by permanent or ephemeral infrastructures, uncontrolled pedestrian or vehicular access and inappropriate use of mechanical beach cleaning have been recognized in this sector of the beach. These long-lasting impacts have promoted the dismantling of large sector of the dune habitats. Obtained results allowed identifying the critical area where appropriate actions can be performed for the mitigation of impacts, the conservation of dune habitats and their sustainable use.     

Dynamic preservation of the coastline in the Netherlands

In 1990, the Government and Parliament of the Netherlands decided on a new national policy for coastal defence. To ensure the enduring safety of the low-lying polders as well as the sustainable preservation of the coastal dunes, it was decided to maintain the coastline in its 1990 position. The main method for coastline preservation in the Netherlands is beach nourishment. Since 1991, approximately 7 million m³ of sand is added to the Dutch beaches annually. From an evaluation study of sand nourishment projects it is concluded that nourishment is an effective and efficient method to preserve the coastline. The evaluation study also proves that nourishment projects should be ‘tailor-made’, taking the local morphological and hydraulic conditions into account. The first results of an experimental shoreface nourishment are discussed. The choice for nourishment as the principal method to combat erosion is well in line with the intention to restore the natural dynamics of the dune-coast in the Netherlands. The key probably is a less strict policy with regard to the maintenance of the foredunes. Plans for the development of typical coastal features such as slufters^*, wash-overs, blow-outs and mobile dunes are currently under discussion. A slufter is a breakthrough in the first dune-ridge whereby the sea invades former dune slacks or beach plains situated behind the duneridge. In this way a tidal marsh is formed within the dune zone.     

A novelty coastal susceptibility assessment method: application to Valdelagrana area (SW Spain)

The main aim of this paper is to present a new methodology to determine coastal susceptibility to erosion and flooding processes by means of an index-based method. The proposed indices take into account physical parameters, such as dune and beach geomorphologic characteristics, shoreline evolution, local significant wave height and relative run-up. The coastal susceptibility has been estimated by elaboration of spatial input data into a GIS environment. The method has been tested in Valdelagrana area, a sandy spit located in SW Spain. The spit includes several morpho-sedimentary environments: sandy beach, discontinuous embryo dunes and foredunes, mud flats and wide areas of vegetated salt marshes. The Northernmost sector is densely urbanized whilst the rest is part of a natural protected area belonging to the Bahía de Cádiz Natural Park. The results obtained showed how the Southern part of the spit presented a high susceptibility due to an elevated erosion rate and the presence of low and discontinuous dune ridges.     

Seaward coastal defence: limitations and possibilities

In The Netherlands shoreline retreat is actively counteracted, mostly by means of beach nourishment in which some allowance is made for natural fluctuations. For some parts of the coast, however, a more active socalled ‘seaward coastal defence strategy’ might be more profitable. This applies to coasts with a small dune ridge subject to severe erosion. According to this strategy the morphological system is influenced in such a way that erosion is prevented, which will result in a stable or even an accretion coastline. The effectiveness of the seaward coastal defence strategy has to be compared with maintenance by beach nourishment. The effects on the morphological system, the environment and other interests must also be analysed. Several seaward solutions are possible. In order to gain more insight into the behaviour of these solutions, comparative pilot studies have been executed for the most vulnerable locations. This paper gives an overview of the main conclusions of the pilot studies in comparison with sand nourishment, the main coastal defence measure.     

Atlantic storminess and historical sand drift in Western Europe: implications for future management of coastal dunes

Historical records of sand drift and dune-building along the coastline of Western Europe provide insights into the natural processes of sand dune accretion and both the impacts of, and human responses to, sand incursions. The analysis of documentary records, instrumental data and proxy records over the last 1,000 years indicates that this period, which included the Little Ice Age (AD 1570–1900), featured numerous episodes of sand drift and dune development driven by strong winds associated with Atlantic storms. It is estimated that sand drift affected over a quarter of a million hectares of coastal land in Western Europe. The widespread use of vegetation to stabilise coastal dune systems and prevent sand drift is documented across Europe from AD 1100 and by the start of the 20th century all of the larger coastal dune systems in Portugal, France, Britain and Denmark were comparatively inactive. Given that Atlantic storminess has remained more or less unchanged over the last 200 years, modern dune management strategies which consider dune devegetation, driven by an increasing focus on ‘naturalness’, may give rise to a recurrence of sand drift problems. Predictions of increased storm frequencies by the end of the 21st century, coupled with sea level rise and potential changes in sand supply will present further challenges for the more ‘dynamic’ dune management strategies.     

Beneficial use of dredged sand for beach nourishment and coastal landform enhancement—the case study of Tróia, Portugal

In the winter of 2006/2007 approximately 200,000 m³ of high quality sand from the dredging of the local marina were placed at the ocean-side beaches in the vicinity of a tourism development in Tróia, Portugal. The beach-quality sediment provided a source of “sand of opportunity” which was used to increase the dry-beach width of the highly used coastal stretch. The sediment was placed along approximately 600 m of shoreline and a monitoring program has since being carried out twice a year. High-resolution topographic surveys and sediment analysis are being conducted to evaluate the performance and response of the fill to the local forcing factors and ultimately to evaluate the effectiveness of the fill project. Two years after the nourishment, the sediment has been distributed both cross-shore and alongshore. The pre-nourishment beach slope was attained and the new shoreline has acquired a natural shape. Berm width increased by a maximum of 100 m, and a set of new dune ridges has developed, due to sand accumulation promoted by the settlement of vegetation. In conclusion, 2 years after its completion, the beach nourishment in Tróia can be viewed as a successful project in which the beneficial use of dredged material resulted in: 1) area for increased dune field growth and development, 2) enhancement of potential shorebird nesting areas and habitat, and 3) increased area for recreation purposes.     

Assessing anthropogenic impact on Mediterranean sand dunes from aerial digital photography

The Mediterranean region plays host to ca. 33% of the world’s tourism industry. This population of visitors (ca. 147 million in 1990) inevitably exerts an enormous impact on the natural resources of this coastal zone. In May 1997, a new generation Aerial Digital Photographic System [ADPS] configured with a Kodak Digital Science 460 CIR digital camera was used to acquire colour infrared digital photographs of the sand dune systems along the Mediterranean coast of France, from Le Barcares to St-Cyprien-Plage. These have been used to assess the condition of the dunes along this coast. A series of simple analytical techniques to identify and measure features indicative of public pressure using image processing software has been devised. The dune manager with basic computer skills can analyse such indicators as path length, vegetation cover (and conversely the extent of bare sand) to enable monitoring of the performance of their dune systems under particular management regimes. These photographs have been compared with similar digital photographs of dune sites in SW France to allow a comparison of dune degradation in a region with a different population pressure and climate regime. Dune systems sampled from the Mediterranean coastal zone showed more evidence of anthropogenically induced change than those sampled in SW France.     

The importance of coastal sand dunes for terrestrial invertebrates in Wales and the UK,with particular reference to aculeate Hymenoptera (bees,wasps &; ants)

Although most UK sand dune systems are now fossilized, with little mobility and reducing amounts of bare sand, they support important populations and assemblages of terrestrial invertebrates. Offering open conditions, warm substrates and a range of habitats and habitat structures, they have become increasingly significant as other coastal habitats have been lost. In Wales, 680 Red Data Book and Nationally Scarce species have been recorded from dunes. 109 species in the UK are restricted to dunes, and in Wales there are an additional 145 species confined to dunes and 208 species strongly associated with dunes. Of these, 172 species are dependent upon bare and sparsely-vegetated sand, in grey dunes and early-successional dune grassland, at some stage of their life cycle, rising to 292 species if those associated with the strandline, foredunes, yellow dunes and pioneer dune slacks are included, equating to 63% of the 462 dune species. Bees and wasps are particularly well represented, with 278 species (68% of the Welsh fauna) recorded on Welsh dunes, including 17 obligates and 44 species with a strong dependence, 52 of which are associated with bare and sparsely-vegetated sand. Key to maintaining invertebrate populations on UK dunes is the provision of bare sand but in Wales, bare sand accounts for only 1.7% of the total sand dune resource. As a more appropriate bare sand threshold is likely to range between 10 and 30%, radical action is required to re-mobilize at least the key sand dune systems.     

Current status and future restoration of coastal dune systems on the Catalan shoreline (Spain,NW Mediterranean Sea)

Coastal dunes are an essential part of beach-dune systems. Dunes systems have their own intrinsic values and provide a range of goods and services, including the protection of tangible goods located on the shoreline affected by waves, storms, and sea erosion. Dunes also act as repositories of biodiversity that have their exclusive habitat in dune communities, and the aesthetic value of dune landscapes derived from unique plant communities and landforms is also of great importance. Nevertheless, dune systems on developed coasts suffered a drastic decline in geomorphological and ecological quality throughout the last century. Catalonia (Spain, NW Mediterranean Sea) is no exception, and the coastal dune systems which were present in the early 20th century have now disappeared due to urbanization. The regeneration of dune systems is of crucial importance in this context. The aim of this study is to assess the current status of dune systems in Catalonia in order to determine their future prospects based on beach characteristics, those beaches likely to host dunes being determined according to their width and sediment type. The results of our study show that nowadays most dune systems in Catalonia are not developed due to human pressure on the beaches. Only those beaches located in the natural protected areas in Roses Bay, Baix Ter Bay, the Llobregat Delta, and especially the Ebro Delta, have the right characteristics to host well-developed dune systems. That said, 30% of sandy beaches in Catalonia have a width of over 35 metres; wide enough to host well-developed dune systems if appropriate integrated beach management is applied. The methodology used in this research also provide a tool to assess which are the beaches that can host dunes on other developed shores in the Mediterranean area.     

A very unusual ‘groin’, the MV River Princess,Goa, India and its impacts upon tourism

On June 6, 2000, the Merchant Vessel River Princess – dead weight 114,645 tonnes and 261 m in length, grounded on the beach off the Candolim-Sinquerim coast, Goa, India, spilling some 40 tonnes of oil. In the past 10 years it has settled some 10 m into the sea bed and taken in circa 40,000 tonnes of sand. Until the ‘60’s the Goan economy centered on agriculture and fishing with very low key recreation. Over the last three decades it has become heavily reliant upon recreation, with 13 % of GDP arising from this sector. Nine million cubic metres of littoral drift occurs off this beach per annum, with the longshore current broken by rips into a series of circulating cells. The vessel acts as a massive groin so much so that downdrift, erosion of approximately 5 to 10 m/annum (dependent on the monsoon strength) is occurring at the Taj hotel site. Satellite imagery has shown that some 0.13 km² beach loss has occurred since 2001. Downdrift, the beach is circa 20 m wide compared to updrift areas where it exceeds 100 m. Embryo tombola growth has now commenced between shore and ship. In addition to this, the dune system is now seriously out of equilibrium and sand bags, geotextiles etc. are currently in use to combat dune foot erosion. Questionnaires (n?=?111) showed that 37 % of beach users ranked erosion as the top coastal problem. Sixty seven percent of beach users rated scenery as the most important quality of a beach and due to the grounded ship, >60 % rated the scenery as below average, as well as viewing the ship as a source of danger for swimming purposes.     

Vegetation dynamics on the Łeba Bar/Poland: a comparison of the vegetation in 1932 and 2006 with special regard to endangered habitats

Coastal dune ecosystems are among the most dynamic habitats with high conservation value in Europe but are also under strong anthropogenic pressure regarding coastal protection and recreation. Hence, it is of high importance to know about long-term natural and anthropogenic changes and development of protected dune habitats for nature conservation, as well as for coastal management. This paper aims to identify the vegetation dynamics on the Łeba Bar/Poland over a period of 74 years by cartometric comparison using modern Geographical Information System (GIS). To quantify the rate of vegetation dynamics two aerial photographs dating from 1932 and 2006 were digitalized and analyzed with GIS to produce digital vegetation maps. Information about decrease, increase and stability of vegetation types of this area are discussed. The results show that there has been a clear reduction in the total area of bare sand and a considerable increase of woodlands and dense grass communities. Nevertheless, the remaining extensive drift sand areas and deflation hollows on the Łeba Bar offer one of the most important habitats for pioneer vegetation on bare sand of migrating dunes and dunes at the Southern Baltic coast. The present work proved the need to observe the future development of the vegetation communities and to implement management measures to maintain the dynamic of this unique dune landscape.     

Ecohydrological studies of dune slack vegetation at Kenfig dunes,South Wales,UK

Dune slacks are important coastal sand dune habitats and seasonal changes in water levels within dune aquifers control both their formation and the specific hydrological conditions which then govern the floristic composition of their characteristic plant communities. Kenfig Dunes National Nature Reserve is one of the largest dune sites in South Wales and Southern Britain. It supports an exceptional range of dune slack communities, including most of those recognised in the British National Vegetation Classification scheme. Detailed studies of the vegetation ecology and hydrology of dune slacks reveal the important influence of hydrological variables in controlling the composition of dune slack vegetation and also valuable information on water table profile and the key factors governing the annual hydrological budget of the dune system aquifer.