Shoreline shifting and its prediction using remote sensing and GIS techniques: a case study of Sagar Island,West Bengal (India)

The shoreline position is difficult to predict but the trend of erosion or accretion can be determined by geospatial and statistical techniques which may help in reducing the loss of property. The study aims to assess the shoreline changes and prediction in Sagar Island, a delta of the Ganges, situated in West Bengal, India. Shorelines have been delineated by using Tasseled Cap Transformation techniques from the Landsat MSS (1975), Landsat TM (1989, 1991) and Landsat ETM+ (1999, 2002, 2005, 2008, and 2011) images. The uncertainty was calculated for every year for assessing the positional error related to shoreline extraction. Total shoreline change rate/year has also been calculated and the uncertainty of total shoreline change rate was found ±3.20 m/year. In the present study, End Point Rate (EPR) and Linear Regression (LR) methods have been used for shoreline change rate calculation and prediction of shoreline. Long term (1975–2002) and short term (2002–2011) erosion and accretion rates were calculated for the study area. Sagar is the biggest island of the Sundarban region; so, it was divided into three segments in order to analyze the change on a segment basis. It was observed that the most of erosion occurred in the Segment B (south Sagar). The rate of erosion was ?7.91 and ?7.01 m/year for the periods 1975–2002 and 2002–2011 respectively. The mean shoreline change rate was high in Segment B (South Sagar) with values of ?6.46 m/year (1975–2002) but the rate was decreased into ?5.25 m/year during the later period (2002–2011). The study reveals that most of the southern part of Sagar Island is vulnerable to high rate of shoreline erosion.     

Assessment of shoreline changes over the Northern Tamil Nadu Coast,South India using WebGIS techniques

Coastal zone is often vulnerable to natural hazards such as cyclones, storm surges, tsunamis, erosion, accretion, and coastal flooding; and man-made hazards like ports, jetties, seawalls, breakwaters, and groins. These disasters are frequently affecting the shorelines, beaches, and headlands that lead to loss of human life, properties, and natural ecosystems. To prevent further loss in the coastal zone and to conserve the existing natural resources, it is important to map and monitor vulnerable shorelines at frequent time intervals. The current study, conducted over the Northern TN (Tamil Nadu) coast of India, is highly dynamic due to its nature of coast and shoreline changes. The temporal remote sensing data and Survey of India (SOI) topographic maps over the period of 40 years (i.e., 1976–2016) were used to capture shorelines and then the erosion and accretion from the shorelines were assessed by performing the overlay analysis. These geospatial datasets of shorelines were incorporated into WebGIS platform, which was developed and demonstrated using open source software. This latest WebGIS technology allows users to store a large volume of geospatial datasets in the server and access through internet with a web browser that lead to manipulation, visualization, interaction, and dissemination. The results revealed that there were 61 layers, which include district-wise shorelines, erosion, and accretion for Tiruvallur, Chennai, and Kanchipuram. These geospatial datasets in WebGIS showed that the dynamism on the morphological structure of the shorelines, over the Northern TN lost 1,925 ha and gained 1,578 ha due to erosion and accretion, respectively. It is reported that in this study spatial reduction in the coastline may be attributed to natural and anthropogenic activities. However, this research will be useful for various stakeholders, including coastal management authorities to formulate policies and to regulate the coastal development activities.     

Integrated shoreline management and tourism development on the cross-border World Heritage Site: A case study from the Curonian spit (Lithuania/Russia)

The varied and very dynamic landscape with a high biological diversity is a distinctive feature of the Curonian spit at the regional scale. Throughout the 20th century the main morphodynamic trend in the littoral of the Curonian spit was shoreline grading on the lagoon side, whereas on the marine side the increasing erosion at the foot of the spit, and increasing accretion at the head of the spit prevailed. The results of a discriminant analysis (Wilkes’ λ = 0.001626 and F = 29.267 when p < 0.001) show that sites with prevailing erosion, accretion and sediment input from the drifting dunes form regular inter-related spatial structures in the littoral with distinctive resulting discontinuities of the sediment drift along the lagoon coast. Dune littoral cells are characterized by Aeolian sediment input and distribution ‘down-drift’, (usually northwards) from the source. The most likely changes in the current development trends of the lagoon shore zone of the Curonian spit are related to expected climate changes and further slowing down of the dune drift. The probability of storms and ice-drift events, and their impact on coasts is expected to increase as a result of climate change. The dune advance will gradually slow down, and with it, the sand input to the coastal zone will decline. In this paper, we define integrated shoreline management as a system of long-term shoreline management measures, which is based on a littoral cell approach and aimed at harmonizing human activity in the coastal zone with the natural development of the shoreline. We propose an integrated management program for the lagoon shoreline of the Curonian spit, which is site-specific for each littoral cell as a coastal management unit. Drifting dunes and seaside beaches are the natural amenities, which are best known and best appreciated on the Curonian spit by 49% of the respondents representing the total Lithuanian population. A responsible tourism development should be considered as the key means for proper appreciation of the drifting dunes and natural coasts by society, which means to acknowledge and cherish the aesthetic and conservation values of dune and coastal landscapes of the Curonian spit as a World Heritage Site. There are at least two pre-conditions for this: (1) to provide visitors with sufficient information about diverse values and functions of the Curonian dunes and coasts within a broader regional and global heritage conservation context; (2) to enable tourists to enjoy the most impressive dune and coastal landscapes at close range. In this paper we propose to encourage active dune tourism, to reintroduce grazing into the Curonian dune areas, to restore and to preserve the most impressive landscapes of the highest white drifting dunes by bringing the blown out sand from the leeward foot of the dunes back to the crest artificially.     

Detached breakwaters’ effects on a microtidal Mediterranean Coast, case of the Hammam-Lif littoral (North-East of Tunisia)

The Hammam Lif shoreline, which is part of the Gulf of Tunis (North-East of Tunisia), suffered from a dramatic erosion event during a storm in 1981. Therefore, eight successive and detached breakwaters were built to protect it. The effect of these protection works on the evolution of this coastline is assessed using aerial photographs geo-referenced by digital photogrammetric methods. Results show that a general accretion has developed behind the detached breakwaters, with the formation of seven tombolos and one salient. The response of the coastline depends on the characteristics of the protective works (length, distance to coast, and spacing). Detached breakwaters which are short, far from the coastline and distant from each other, give rise to very small tombolos or salients. On the other hand, longer breakwaters which are near the coastline and closely spaced, give rise to more developed tombolos, showing that these structures are the most efficient.     

Rates of shoreline change along the coast of Bangladesh

Bangladesh, at the confluence of the sediment-laden Ganges and Brahmaputra Rivers, supports an enormous and rapidly growing population (>140 million in 2011), across low-lying alluvial and delta plains that have accumulated over the past few thousand years. It has been identified as one of the most vulnerable places in the world to the impacts of climate change and sea-level rise. Although abundant sediment supply has resulted in accretion on some parts of the coast of Bangladesh, others are experiencing rapid erosion. We report a systematic assessment of rates of shoreline change over a 20-year period from 1989 to 2009, using Landsat satellite images with pixel resolution of 30 m on the ground. A Band ratio approach, using Band-5 divided by Band-2, discriminated the water line on images that were largely cloud-free, adequately registered, and at comparable tidal stages. Rates of shoreline change were calculated for >16,000 transects generated at 50 m intervals along the entire mainland coastline (>1,100 km) and major islands, using the End Point Rate (EPR) method in the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) extension in ArcGIS®. Erosion characterises most of the seaward margin of the Sundarbans in western Bangladesh. Retreat rates of up to 20 m/yr are typical, with little evidence that local devastation of the mangrove fringe by Cyclone Sidr in November 2007 had resulted in uncharacteristic long-term rates of retreat where it made landfall. Erosion exceeded accretion in the Barguna Patuakhali coastal zone, most of which eroded at up to 20 m/yr, but with truncation of the southern tip of the Patharghata Upazila at up to 100 m/yr. In Bhola, erosion at rates of up to 120 m/yr were observed along much of the coast, but in the Noakhali Feni coastal zone, similar rates of erosion were balanced by rapid accretion of the main promontory by more than 600 m/yr. Rates of change were more subdued in the Chittagong and Cox’s Bazar coastal zones of southeast Bangladesh. Islands in the Meghna estuary were especially dynamic; Hatiya Island accreted along some of its shoreline by 50 km² between 1989 and 2009, but lost 65 km² through erosion elsewhere, resulting in the island moving south. Similar trends were observed on adjacent islands. The overall area changed relatively little across the entire coastline over the 20-year period with accretion of up to 315 km², countered by erosion of about 307 km².     

Analysis of sedimentation at the fishing harbor entrance: case study of El-Burullus,Egypt

Sedimentation in artificial ports and harbors is a common issue throughout the world. Based on an assessment of the coastal fishing harbors in Egypt, the El-Burullus fishing harbor has been found to suffer severely from siltation. Sediment deposits are concentrated at the harbor entrance, which threatens navigation through this area. Although the harbor authority has constructed a perpendicular extension on the main breakwater to mitigate these siltation issues, fishing boats are still suffering from the siltation at the harbor entrance. Dredging is required every year to maintain continuity of navigation through the harbor; the cost of dredging is a critical element which impacts the economic feasibility of the harbor. Therefore, the need to investigate new solutions for the siltation issue is critical. In this study, a two-dimensional calibrated and validated model using the Coastal Modeling System package is used to understand the coastal processes within the study area. It is also used to investigate the effects of the proposed breakwater extension on the siltation at the harbor outlet. Field data such as hydrographic surveys, waves, tides, and lake outlet discharge data were collected and included in the model. The results obtained for the current breakwater conditions confirmed the claims of the fishermen that the sedimentation problem still occurs at the entrance. Thus, five possible solutions to mitigate the problem were proposed and simulated considering the following parameters: sediment deposition rate to the west of the main breakwater, the erosion rate in front of the seawall in the eastern part of the harbor, and the morphological changes within the El-Burullus lake outlet. According to the simulation results, reducing the length of the upper edge of the middle jetty by 90 m improves the stability of the harbor entrance. Alternatively, replacing the perpendicular extension by an inclined extension of 60 m in length and shortening the middle jetty by 60 m reduces the accretion and erosion rates around the harbor which promotes the long-term stability for the coastal area in addition to favorable conditions to the El-Burullus harbor entrance.     

Automatic detection of shoreline change: case of North Sinai coast,Egypt

This paper introduces an appropriate visualization of how to effectively digitize, quantify and predict shoreline kinematics changes. The method relies mainly on the coupling of Geographic Information System (GIS) with Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS). The North Sinai coast in Egypt is selected as a case study. The proposed technique is applied over a quarter-centennial period of 27 years (1989–2016). However, the years 2025, 2035, and 2050 are used for prediction purpose. Histogram threshold of band 5, Histogram threshold of band ratio, and Tasselled Cap Transformation (TCT) are initially tempted as semi-automatic shoreline extraction techniques for Landsat ETM 2010 imagery. Among of them, the TCT is found superior as a digitizing technique that attains the least normalized root mean square errors with the corresponding field data in 2010. Meanwhile, the shoreline change rates in the form of erosion/accretion patterns are automatically quantified by four statistical parameters functioned in DSAS coding. Those, namely end point rate (EPR), net shoreline movement (NSM), linear regression rate (LRR), and least median of squares (LMS). On the basis of the LRR and EPR results, this study offers to the coastal managers a highly reliable decision-support-algorism that can dynamically assist in elaborating strategies to curtail the non-affirmative consequences due to the erosion/accretion of the shoreline.     

Where is the best site for wave energy exploitation? Case study along the coast of northern Latium (ITALY)

The present work proposes a siting process for the detection of a suitable site for wave energy exploitation. The choice of a suitable site is based on the good agreement between energy availability, environmental sustainability, and equipped facilities to exploit wave energy. The case study in the northern Latium coast is explicative because in this area there are several activities that affect marine ecosystems, and the introduction of renewable energies promote the reduction of anthropic pressures. The nearshore wave power is studied through the numerical wave model (CMS-Wave), and available wave buoys along the coast were used to compare numerical results. In correspondence with Civitavecchia harbour, the largest nearshore wave energy was found; the large depth in front of the breakwater allows to conserve a great part of offshore wave power, with an average dissipation rate of 10 % less than offshore, with mean annual available wave energy of 25.4 MWh/m and seasonal fluctuation of 5.4 MWh/m. This area appears to be an optimal site for nearshore and shoreline wave energy device tests and installations, for energy availability (intermediate level respect Mediterreanean Sea), low potential environmental impact, easier accessibility, and policy oriented towards a larger sustainability of harbour activities.     

A novelty coastal susceptibility assessment method: application to Valdelagrana area (SW Spain)

The main aim of this paper is to present a new methodology to determine coastal susceptibility to erosion and flooding processes by means of an index-based method. The proposed indices take into account physical parameters, such as dune and beach geomorphologic characteristics, shoreline evolution, local significant wave height and relative run-up. The coastal susceptibility has been estimated by elaboration of spatial input data into a GIS environment. The method has been tested in Valdelagrana area, a sandy spit located in SW Spain. The spit includes several morpho-sedimentary environments: sandy beach, discontinuous embryo dunes and foredunes, mud flats and wide areas of vegetated salt marshes. The Northernmost sector is densely urbanized whilst the rest is part of a natural protected area belonging to the Bahía de Cádiz Natural Park. The results obtained showed how the Southern part of the spit presented a high susceptibility due to an elevated erosion rate and the presence of low and discontinuous dune ridges.     

Historical maps and satellite images as tools for shoreline variations and territorial changes assessment: the case study of Volturno Coastal Plain (Southern Italy)

Anthropic pressure has caused severe variations of Mediterranean coastal areas currently hosting about 480 million people. The replacement of natural land covers with crops and urban environment coupled with the reduction of sediment supply to the coast, subsidence, Relative Sea Level Rise and the high frequency of storm events, have caused severe shoreline erosion. In this paper, we stress the key role of historical maps, topographic maps and free satellite images to forecast the rates of coastline changes and to recognize the main features of past landscapes as tools for risk reduction. This data was recorded into a Geographical Information System dedicated to coastal management that allows to compare different coastal zones and elaborate maps. The analysis was applied to the case study of Volturno Coastal Plain (VCP), extending from the town of Mondragone to Patria Lake (Campania Region, Southern Italy). Indeed, the intense territorial modification that occurred between the seventies and eighties, coupled with the exposure to coastal erosion, make the VCP a good test area. The spatial analysis algorithms allowed to outline the main features of past landscapes and how they changed from roman times to present while the coastal evolution (erosion, accretion) and possible future coastal trend was assessed with the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) software. Starting from the Bourbon domain, the reclamation caused the first great territorial change (e.g. wetlands were transformed into agricultural lands, regimentation of surperficial water) but the negative effects of antrophic pressure, as the intense urbanization of the coastal belt, emerged in the seventies of the last century. The shoreline position was defined for 9 time intervals (from 1817 to 2012) as the ratio of the distance between two shorelines and the relative elapsed time. Moreover, for the 1957–1998 and 1998–2012 time windows, the shoreline trends were calculated with the weighted linear regression method. The first trend pointed out an intensive erosional phase (mean value: 5 m/yr) for a wide sector close to the Volturno River mouth, the eroded sediment nourished the beaches of other coastal sectors. This phase was related to the reduction of River sediment supply mainly due to the construction of the Ponte Annibale dam on the Volturno River. The second (1998–2012) showed an alternation of erosion and accretion sectors due to a sediment starved condition to deltaic zone and to a sequence of 52 sea protection works in the Gaeta Gulf. Furthermore, the regression values of more recent time interval, was assumed as a scenario to draw the probable shoreline position in 2022. The overlay of this shoreline on the Technical Maps of Campania Region at 1:5000 scale highlighted the urban area that could be exposed to damages.     

Recent shoreline evolution and beach erosion along the central Adriatic coast of Italy: the case of Molise region

A study on the modern dynamics and shoreline changes from 1954 to 2014 of the Molise coast (central Adriatic Sea) has been carried out. Short to long-term shoreline changes and associated surface area variations have been assessed in GIS environment for the study coast, subdivided in nine coastal segments (S1-S9), by using 100-m regularly spaced transects. In addition, the possible influence of natural and anthropogenic factors, especially of climatic variability and engineered shoreline defense structures, has been investigated. The Molise coast has experienced notable long-term erosion (period 1054-2014) that caused an overall coastal land loss of approximately 940,000 m². Erosion was, yet, limited to coastal segments S1 and S7, nearest to the mouths of major rivers, namely Trigno and Biferno, while the major part of the study coast has remained essentially stable or even advanced. Increased shoreline protection by defense structures has generally favoured shoreline stability and frequently generated shoreline advance, except for segments S1 and S7. Observed differences in shoreline change rates over time at the decadal to interannual scale, have not find a response in the analysis of available data on meteo-marine conditions of the Molise coast and climate variability indices, pointing out the need to improve knowledge on meteomarine conditions and on climatic variability forcing of the study area. From 2004 to 2014, the Molise shoreline remained essentially stable. Nonetheless, most recent shoreline changes (period 2011-2014) and modern shoreline dynamics indicate that erosion has become more widespread, involving at least part of segments S2-S3 and S8-S9, located south of the river mouth segments. The localized long-term shoreline retreat and most recent shoreline erosion appear to be primarily related to channel adjustments of the Biferno and Trigno rivers that occurred since the 1950s under the control of human interventions on the rivers, especially the construction respectively of a dam and a check dam along their lower courses, that trap of most of their solid load, affecting so adversely the sediment budget of the river mouths areas and adjacent beaches. Overall data acquired on the recent shoreline evolution and modern shoreline dynamics of the Molise coast and on related causal factors provide a good basic knowledge for regional coastal management purposes, and for further scientific purposes. Particularly, they suggest the opportunity to deepen a number of aspects such as the relationship between the coast and river catchments feeding it, the possible influences on the Molise shoreline dynamics of the neighbouring coasts, the efficiency/obsolescence of defense structures and the present-day vulnerability to coastal erosion of the Molise coast.     

Pre- and post-beach response to engineering hard structures using Landsat time-series at the northwestern part of the Nile delta,Egypt

Analyses have been undertaken to examine shoreline positions established from remote sensing data along the northwestern part of the Nile delta from the Abu Qir Bay to Gamasa embayment (∼143 km length). The image data used (MSS, TM and ETM+ sensors) are acquired at unequal intervals between 1972 and 2006, i.e., covering a time span of 34 years. Automated waterline positions extracted from Landsat satellite images during this period of time were computer generated. A digital shoreline analysis software was used to calculate the annual rate of beach changes at 1,432 cross-shore transects prior to (1972–1990) and after protection (1993–2006). On comparison, rates estimated from three statistical approaches (the end point rate, the Jackknife and a weighted linear regression) at corresponding positions are successfully validated with those measured from ground survey. Before protection, results reveal longshore patterns wherein erosion along a coastal stretch gives way to accretion in an adjacent stretch, refining the sub-cells previously identified within the littoral system of the delta. Maximum shoreline retreat occurs along the Rosetta promontory (−138.52 m/year) and along the central bulge of the delta at Burullus headland (−6.07 m/year). In contrast areas of shoreline accretion exist within saddles or embayments between the promontories at west Abu Qir Bay (20.04 m/year), Abu Khashaba saddle (16.17 m/year) and Gamasa embayment (20.68 m/year). These rates of changes have been significantly altered by the construction of intensive shoreline protective structures built from 1990 to combat areas of rapid erosion at both the Rosetta promontory and Burullus–Baltim headland, ∼15-km length in total.     

Morphological cells in the Ragusa littoral (Sicily, Italy)

Geomorphologic information, topographic maps (dated 1967), aerial photographs (dated 1999 and 2008), and spatial analysis procedures were used to investigate a 90 km long coastal sector in South Sicily (Italy). Information was obtained on coastal erosion/accretion areas, general sediment circulation pattern and littoral cell distribution. Human-made structures and natural headlands constituted important artificial limits dividing littoral in morphological cells. Ports and harbours were observed at Scoglitti, Punta Secca, Marina di Ragusa, Donnalucata and Pozzallo. Most of them worked as “transit” limits which interrupted predominant, eastward directed sedimentary transport, this way generating accretion in updrift (west) side of mentioned structures and erosion in downdrift (east) side. During the 1967–2008 period, about 62,000 m² and 42,000 m² of beach surface were respectively formed updrift of Scoglitti and Donnalucata ports. The construction of Pozzallo port gave rise to the formation of a “convergent” limit which favoured large accretion (94,000 m²) east of port structure. Most important natural structures were observed at Punta Zafaglione, P. Braccetto and Cava d’Aliga. The knowledge of littoral cell distribution acquires a great importance for appropriate management of coastal erosion processes which may be mitigated installing by-passing systems in ports and harbours and carrying out nourishment works in eroding areas, often located downdrift of ports and harbours (when these structures work as transit limits) and in central part of littoral cells (when these structures work as convergent limits).     

Environmental stresses and intertidal assemblages on hard substrates in the port of Long Beach,California, USA

Nine intertidal stations within the Port of Long Beach, California, USA, were sampled during September and October 1975 using the random point method and the scraping technique. A total of 96,168 individuals belonging to 55 taxa were recorded in the quantitative survey; qualitative scrapings included 136 taxa. The protected outer coast intertidal assemblages were found at all but three stations along the shoreline. The shoreline, being situated in between the more environmentally stressed inner harbor and the less stressed open ocean, supported assemblages characterized by an instability in species composition. The upper midlittoral zone was typically dominated by Chthamalus dalli, C. fissus and Balanus glandula. The lower midlittoral was colonized either by Anthopleura elegantissima-Prionotis lanceolata facies along the outer breakwater or by A. elegantissima-Tetraclita squamosa rubescens facies along the inner breakwater. The mussel bed, which is the characteristic assemblage of the Californian lower midlittoral zone was obscured by the competitors P. lanceolata, T. squamosa rubescens and A. elegantissima, and was thinned out by predators, of which Pisaster ochraceus was the most voracious. Suspension feeders were dominant in the upper midlittoral and producers and grazers in the lower midlittoral. Predators were few in number and restricted to levels below mean lower low water. There was a gradual increase in numbers of intertidal species and individual abundance from level +5 ft (1.5 m) to level +1 ft (0.3 m) and from shoreline to outer breakwater. This may be attributable to the decrease in environmental stresses in the lower water levels and the improvement in water quality from the inner to outer harbor area.     

Beneficial use of dredged sand for beach nourishment and coastal landform enhancement—the case study of Tróia, Portugal

In the winter of 2006/2007 approximately 200,000 m³ of high quality sand from the dredging of the local marina were placed at the ocean-side beaches in the vicinity of a tourism development in Tróia, Portugal. The beach-quality sediment provided a source of “sand of opportunity” which was used to increase the dry-beach width of the highly used coastal stretch. The sediment was placed along approximately 600 m of shoreline and a monitoring program has since being carried out twice a year. High-resolution topographic surveys and sediment analysis are being conducted to evaluate the performance and response of the fill to the local forcing factors and ultimately to evaluate the effectiveness of the fill project. Two years after the nourishment, the sediment has been distributed both cross-shore and alongshore. The pre-nourishment beach slope was attained and the new shoreline has acquired a natural shape. Berm width increased by a maximum of 100 m, and a set of new dune ridges has developed, due to sand accumulation promoted by the settlement of vegetation. In conclusion, 2 years after its completion, the beach nourishment in Tróia can be viewed as a successful project in which the beneficial use of dredged material resulted in: 1) area for increased dune field growth and development, 2) enhancement of potential shorebird nesting areas and habitat, and 3) increased area for recreation purposes.     

Breakwater control system and structural analysis: physical and numerical modelling (Port of Funchal,Madeira Island,Portugal)

The objective of this work was to analyze the behavior of the Funchal Port (Madeira Island, Portugal) breakwater using physical and numerical models in order to analyze the evolution of the underwater layers, combining information between the two models as well as simulating storm conditions and atypical docking/undocking impacts of cruise ships. Regarding the physical model using a wave generation system, the data collected and the test conditions were addressed considering different scenarios (return periods of 20, 50 and 100 years). It was found that for return periods of 20 years, the behavior of the infrastructure as a whole was stable. For return periods of 50 years, wave overtopping became more frequent and intense, and began to impact the superstructure. For the 100-year return period the behavior of the infrastructure was found to be unstable, with persistent wave overtopping. The morphology of the submerged layers also changed. The main objectives of the numerical model approach were to estimate the natural frequencies of vibration (when materials suffer a considerable modification, a change in their frequencies of vibration can be detected), and to calculate the expected displacements corresponding to cruise ship docking processes (agitation in a protected area) and the associated maximum maritime (agitation in an exposed area) forces. The maximum displacements obtained for the two cases were about 0.03 m, which is a high value. Considering the results obtained from this work, the Port authorities decided to maintain the monitoring program and perform an underwater video inspection.     

Confronting coastal morphodynamics with counter-erosion engineering: the emblematic case of Wissant Bay,Dover Strait

Wissant Bay is a picturesque and highly frequented French coastal resort comprising beaches, dunes, marshes, and bold capes facing the Dover Strait. Situated at the southern approaches to the North Sea, the 8 km-long bay has, arguably, the most rapidly eroding shoreline in metropolitan France. Retreat has largely affected much of the bay shoreline west of Wissant town, with parts of this sector having lost up to 250 m in the last 50 years, whereas a much smaller sector east of the town is a zone of accretion. Various dune, beach and nearshore morphodynamic studies conducted over the last decade have identified chronic sand bleeding from the western sector and longshore transport to the east, within a framework of what appears to be an ongoing shoreline rotation process within a dominant longshore sediment transport cell between the headland of Cape Gris Nez to the west and the bold chalk cliffs of Cape Blanc Nez to the east. Retreat of the narrowing beach-dune barrier poses a threat in the coming years, as there is a likelihood of it being breached by storms. The seawall protecting Wissant town has also been repeatedly damaged since 2000 due to the chronic sand deficit. These changes involve interactions between a nearshore sand bank, a complex macrotidal beach comprising multiple subtidal to intertidal bars and troughs subject to strong longshore sand transport especially during storms, and aeolian dunes. The nearshore bank acts as a dissipater of incident storm wave energy and as a sand source for the multi-barred beaches and dunes, and has been strongly impacted by past massive aggregate extraction. The bank is, in turn, part of a larger system of mobile banks reworked by storms and tidal currents within the framework of a sand circulation system between the eastern English Channel and the southern North Sea. The aim of this work is to confront knowledge acquired on the morphodynamics of the bay with an engineering plan proposed to counter erosion and reestablish shoreline stability. The plan is based essentially on the creation of an ‘equilibrium’ beach profile, capable of withstanding storms, comprising an enlarged upper beach berm, and constructed through beach nourishment from a nearshore source located 20 km east of Wissant Bay. The plan has not been implemented because of cost. Even if it were to be implemented, its efficiency seems very doubtful because the beach profile simulations on which it is based neglect the complex multi-barred morphology and the overwhelming dominant longshore transport over bars during storms. The plan is also geared towards resolving a local problem of erosion that is embedded in the larger and rather complex spatiotemporal morphodynamics and sediment transport mechanisms evoked above. Wissant Bay is emblematic of the problems of erosion facing many communes in France, and elsewhere. The fight against shoreline erosion generally starts with the commonly insurmountable hurdle of fund-raising for costly engineering proposals that are not always based on a clear grasp of the embedded scales of change affecting the coast.     

Predicting the spatial distribution of mangroves in a South African estuary in response to sea level rise,substrate elevation change and a sea storm event

The spatial distribution of mangroves in the Mngazana Estuary under sea level rise induced by climate change, together with different substrate elevation change scenarios was predicted for 2020, 2050 and 2100. The present inundation frequency tolerance range was from 0.8 to 31.2 %, equivalent to substrate elevation thresholds of 1.1 and 1.7 m amsl. These thresholds were measured by field surveys and analysis of a gauge station situated near the mouth of the estuary. The predictions were based on the assumption that the inundation frequency tolerance range of mangrove stands remains constant in the future. Through the use of a digital elevation model an initial increase of 2.10 ha year^?1 was found in mangrove area between present and 2020 (from 122.6 to 143.6 ha). This was due to habitat becoming available that is currently too compacted for seedling establishment to occur. This compaction resulted from human and cattle traffic for grazing. Thereafter there would be a mean loss of 0.66 ha year^?1 from 2020 through 2100. Landward migration of mangroves would not take place due to the elevation limit of adjacent non-mangrove areas. In addition, the loss rate would increase to 1.01 ha year^?1 under insufficient sediment accretion, but would decrease to 0.18 ha year^?1 under thriving mangroves condition. The analysis of sea storm event in September 2008 showed that local water level increased by 28 cm and maximum affected area was 87.0 ha (about 71 % of mangrove stands). The inundation continued over 5 days. The results indicated that the combination impact of sea level rise, substrate elevation change and sea storm would possibly be a threat to tropical African estuaries with large flat intertidal areas and mangroves.     

Shoreline rotation and response to nourishment of a gravel embayed beach using a low-cost video monitoring technique: San Michele-Sassi Neri,Central Italy

On beaches where natural shoreline variability is significant, beach nourishment is a useful engineering method to augment the dry beach and protect infrastructure and/or unstable cliffs. In this study, a low-cost video monitoring system is used to monitor the shoreline response to a nourishment operation on a dynamic gravel embayed beach in Central Italy. Video-derived shorelines were collected over a 15-month period to measure the evolution of the beach with regards to three specific parameters: the dry beach width, the dry beach area and the beach orientation. Moderate increases in the dry beach width of 3.6 m and 6.7 m across the embayment were observed in response to two different gravel nourishments of approximately 40,000 m³ and 46,000 m³ respectively. The orientation of the beach meanwhile was found to rotate rapidly in the clockwise direction and more gradually in the counter-clockwise direction. Analyses of individual storm events suggest these rapid clockwise rotations are caused by ESE storms, which result in beach retreat particularly at the southern end. The combination of an overall narrow beach width and a clockwise beach orientation is observed to cause a cliff erosion event at a vulnerable point along the embayment.     

Spatio-temporal changes associated with natural and anthropogenic factors in wetlands of Great Rann of Kachchh,India

Studies about wetlands have been identified as a key component of environmental change. The present study assesses the spatio-temporal changes in the wetlands of the Great Rann of Kachchh, in the Kachchh Biosphere Reserve, India, using remote sensing and GIS techniques. Satellite time-series data from Landsat (1977, 1990 and 1999) and IRS P6 (2006, 2008–2012) were used. The Normalised Difference Water Index (NDWI) was derived for each year and the layers were manually edited to obtain a high classification accuracy. The analysis found that the area has undergone considerable change from 1977 to 2011. The natural wetland area of 30.6 km² was converted to salt pans. An area of about 255 km² (41.6 %) of natural grassland was invaded by Prosopis juliflora, which raises further conservation concerns and emphasises the importance of having intervention plans to manage this ecosystem. The highest water spread of 1171 km² was observed in September 2011, followed by 2010, 2009 and 2008 in the same month. The present study is useful in planning the long-term management and conservation of the Great Rann of Kachchh wetland.