Rates of shoreline change along the coast of Bangladesh

Bangladesh, at the confluence of the sediment-laden Ganges and Brahmaputra Rivers, supports an enormous and rapidly growing population (>140 million in 2011), across low-lying alluvial and delta plains that have accumulated over the past few thousand years. It has been identified as one of the most vulnerable places in the world to the impacts of climate change and sea-level rise. Although abundant sediment supply has resulted in accretion on some parts of the coast of Bangladesh, others are experiencing rapid erosion. We report a systematic assessment of rates of shoreline change over a 20-year period from 1989 to 2009, using Landsat satellite images with pixel resolution of 30 m on the ground. A Band ratio approach, using Band-5 divided by Band-2, discriminated the water line on images that were largely cloud-free, adequately registered, and at comparable tidal stages. Rates of shoreline change were calculated for >16,000 transects generated at 50 m intervals along the entire mainland coastline (>1,100 km) and major islands, using the End Point Rate (EPR) method in the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) extension in ArcGIS®. Erosion characterises most of the seaward margin of the Sundarbans in western Bangladesh. Retreat rates of up to 20 m/yr are typical, with little evidence that local devastation of the mangrove fringe by Cyclone Sidr in November 2007 had resulted in uncharacteristic long-term rates of retreat where it made landfall. Erosion exceeded accretion in the Barguna Patuakhali coastal zone, most of which eroded at up to 20 m/yr, but with truncation of the southern tip of the Patharghata Upazila at up to 100 m/yr. In Bhola, erosion at rates of up to 120 m/yr were observed along much of the coast, but in the Noakhali Feni coastal zone, similar rates of erosion were balanced by rapid accretion of the main promontory by more than 600 m/yr. Rates of change were more subdued in the Chittagong and Cox’s Bazar coastal zones of southeast Bangladesh. Islands in the Meghna estuary were especially dynamic; Hatiya Island accreted along some of its shoreline by 50 km² between 1989 and 2009, but lost 65 km² through erosion elsewhere, resulting in the island moving south. Similar trends were observed on adjacent islands. The overall area changed relatively little across the entire coastline over the 20-year period with accretion of up to 315 km², countered by erosion of about 307 km².     

Shoreline shifting and its prediction using remote sensing and GIS techniques: a case study of Sagar Island,West Bengal (India)

The shoreline position is difficult to predict but the trend of erosion or accretion can be determined by geospatial and statistical techniques which may help in reducing the loss of property. The study aims to assess the shoreline changes and prediction in Sagar Island, a delta of the Ganges, situated in West Bengal, India. Shorelines have been delineated by using Tasseled Cap Transformation techniques from the Landsat MSS (1975), Landsat TM (1989, 1991) and Landsat ETM+ (1999, 2002, 2005, 2008, and 2011) images. The uncertainty was calculated for every year for assessing the positional error related to shoreline extraction. Total shoreline change rate/year has also been calculated and the uncertainty of total shoreline change rate was found ±3.20 m/year. In the present study, End Point Rate (EPR) and Linear Regression (LR) methods have been used for shoreline change rate calculation and prediction of shoreline. Long term (1975–2002) and short term (2002–2011) erosion and accretion rates were calculated for the study area. Sagar is the biggest island of the Sundarban region; so, it was divided into three segments in order to analyze the change on a segment basis. It was observed that the most of erosion occurred in the Segment B (south Sagar). The rate of erosion was ?7.91 and ?7.01 m/year for the periods 1975–2002 and 2002–2011 respectively. The mean shoreline change rate was high in Segment B (South Sagar) with values of ?6.46 m/year (1975–2002) but the rate was decreased into ?5.25 m/year during the later period (2002–2011). The study reveals that most of the southern part of Sagar Island is vulnerable to high rate of shoreline erosion.     

Historical maps and satellite images as tools for shoreline variations and territorial changes assessment: the case study of Volturno Coastal Plain (Southern Italy)

Anthropic pressure has caused severe variations of Mediterranean coastal areas currently hosting about 480 million people. The replacement of natural land covers with crops and urban environment coupled with the reduction of sediment supply to the coast, subsidence, Relative Sea Level Rise and the high frequency of storm events, have caused severe shoreline erosion. In this paper, we stress the key role of historical maps, topographic maps and free satellite images to forecast the rates of coastline changes and to recognize the main features of past landscapes as tools for risk reduction. This data was recorded into a Geographical Information System dedicated to coastal management that allows to compare different coastal zones and elaborate maps. The analysis was applied to the case study of Volturno Coastal Plain (VCP), extending from the town of Mondragone to Patria Lake (Campania Region, Southern Italy). Indeed, the intense territorial modification that occurred between the seventies and eighties, coupled with the exposure to coastal erosion, make the VCP a good test area. The spatial analysis algorithms allowed to outline the main features of past landscapes and how they changed from roman times to present while the coastal evolution (erosion, accretion) and possible future coastal trend was assessed with the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) software. Starting from the Bourbon domain, the reclamation caused the first great territorial change (e.g. wetlands were transformed into agricultural lands, regimentation of surperficial water) but the negative effects of antrophic pressure, as the intense urbanization of the coastal belt, emerged in the seventies of the last century. The shoreline position was defined for 9 time intervals (from 1817 to 2012) as the ratio of the distance between two shorelines and the relative elapsed time. Moreover, for the 1957–1998 and 1998–2012 time windows, the shoreline trends were calculated with the weighted linear regression method. The first trend pointed out an intensive erosional phase (mean value: 5 m/yr) for a wide sector close to the Volturno River mouth, the eroded sediment nourished the beaches of other coastal sectors. This phase was related to the reduction of River sediment supply mainly due to the construction of the Ponte Annibale dam on the Volturno River. The second (1998–2012) showed an alternation of erosion and accretion sectors due to a sediment starved condition to deltaic zone and to a sequence of 52 sea protection works in the Gaeta Gulf. Furthermore, the regression values of more recent time interval, was assumed as a scenario to draw the probable shoreline position in 2022. The overlay of this shoreline on the Technical Maps of Campania Region at 1:5000 scale highlighted the urban area that could be exposed to damages.     

Pre- and post-beach response to engineering hard structures using Landsat time-series at the northwestern part of the Nile delta,Egypt

Analyses have been undertaken to examine shoreline positions established from remote sensing data along the northwestern part of the Nile delta from the Abu Qir Bay to Gamasa embayment (∼143 km length). The image data used (MSS, TM and ETM+ sensors) are acquired at unequal intervals between 1972 and 2006, i.e., covering a time span of 34 years. Automated waterline positions extracted from Landsat satellite images during this period of time were computer generated. A digital shoreline analysis software was used to calculate the annual rate of beach changes at 1,432 cross-shore transects prior to (1972–1990) and after protection (1993–2006). On comparison, rates estimated from three statistical approaches (the end point rate, the Jackknife and a weighted linear regression) at corresponding positions are successfully validated with those measured from ground survey. Before protection, results reveal longshore patterns wherein erosion along a coastal stretch gives way to accretion in an adjacent stretch, refining the sub-cells previously identified within the littoral system of the delta. Maximum shoreline retreat occurs along the Rosetta promontory (−138.52 m/year) and along the central bulge of the delta at Burullus headland (−6.07 m/year). In contrast areas of shoreline accretion exist within saddles or embayments between the promontories at west Abu Qir Bay (20.04 m/year), Abu Khashaba saddle (16.17 m/year) and Gamasa embayment (20.68 m/year). These rates of changes have been significantly altered by the construction of intensive shoreline protective structures built from 1990 to combat areas of rapid erosion at both the Rosetta promontory and Burullus–Baltim headland, ∼15-km length in total.     

Shoreline morphological changes and the human factor. Case study of Accra Ghana

The interface between the sea and land is a very dynamic system that is always migrating landward or seaward. The landward migration results in the shoreline threatening coastal infrastructure and destroying the coastal environment. Coastal erosion has resulted in both social and economic problems. Coastal cities have also experienced increasing infrastructure development and population growth. This has resulted in a land “squeeze situation” in which both the shoreline and the “humanline” are competing for space along the coast. This struggle for space could result in serious environmental disaster as a result of the dynamics of the oceanic system, which could impact the immediate environs severely. The aim of this study was to determine if the rate of human encroachment of coastal lands for development exceed the rate at which the shoreline is moving inland as part of its natural cyclic behaviour. This study used 1985 aerial photographs and 2005 orthophoto map of the Accra western coast. Major land cover was identified, classified and overlayed in GIS environment. This enabled changes to be estimated. The shorelines were also digitised and the rate of change computed using the DSAS software. The results indicate that the estimated total area of land lost by human encroachment on the coastal land within the period under study is about 242,139.7 m2. However, the rate of land lost to human development is about 8,349.64 m2/year, which is relatively high. The historic rate of erosion computed for the period under study is about 1.92 m/year. Comparing the two rates indicates that human activities are moving closer to the shoreline as compared to the rate at which the shoreline is moving inland. This study recommends that setback lines should be put in place to protect lands for the shoreline’s cyclic activities.     

Orientation of sandhoppers at different points along a dynamic shoreline in southern Tuscany

Orientation experiments were carried out on Talitrus saltator (Crustacea Amphipoda) at four points along 3 km on a dynamic sandy beach inside the Maremma Regional Park (Grosseto, Italy) to highlight behavioural variation related to distance from a river mouth, to erosion or accretion of shoreline, and to human trampling on the beach. Tests were performed using circular transparent Plexiglas arenas, contemporaneously at the four points. Replicates were made in 2 different months (September 2002 and May 2003), on 2–3 successive days, in the morning and afternoon. The distributions of the angles of orientation were compared for the different points and seasons, and multiple regression analysis was performed to test the effects of environmental and intrinsic variables on orientation. Sandhoppers showed the highest scatter at the eroded shoreline, intermediate scatter at the accreting beach most distant from the river mouth, and consistent orientation seaward at the least disturbed point. Orientation of sandhoppers was significantly affected by season, global radiation, time of day, distance from the river mouth, and human trampling. Sex and air humidity were of minor significance in the multiple regression model. The results, on the one hand, confirm plasticity in orientation of sandhoppers living on a dynamic shoreline, and on the other hand, show that variation in orientation could potentially be used as a bioindicator of shoreline changes.Communicated by R. Cattanevo-Vietti, Genova     

Environmental concerns for marina planning in the Gulf of Suez

This paper presents a case study where numerical modelling was utilized for the first time to estimate shoreline changes during the planning of a private pleasure marina in the Gulf of Suez. The study was made to compliment an environmental impact assessment study (EIA) requested by the Egyptian Environmental Affairs Agency (EEAA). The paper presents data collected during two surveys and the results of the numerical model. The impact of the marina on the sediment budget was investigated using the GENESIS one-line program. One of the main reasons for the study was to confirm that the choice of the marina location ensured minimum erosion of the shoreline. In the model, the sediment transport calibration constants were determined using the results of two surveys. The choice of the formula is discussed in the paper. Two locations for the marina were tested against minimum erosion at the down drift side of the marina. This study was performed in close co-ordination with the EEAA and several solutions were suggested to minimize the expected accretion before the final location was approved.     

Morphological and statistical analysis of the impact of breakwaters under construction on a sand spit area (Douro River estuary)

The area of Cabedelo sand spit, located at the mouth of Douro River estuary (Porto, Portugal), reduced in recent decades. In order to study its evolution and also the impact of two breakwaters built to fix the river entrance, a dataset from 23 trimestral surveys using differential GPS techniques, conducted between 2001 and 2007, were considered. A time-series analysis and the estimation of relationships between Cabedelo spit area and several hydrodynamic parameters through statistical techniques were performed in order to determine which parameters have more influence in the Cabedelo spit behavior. From the time-series analysis a seasonal tendency is visible, with the lower values occurring in December and the higher values occurring in July. The estimation of a relationship between Cabedelo spit area and several independent variables reached better results when the dataset was divided in Part A (before the beginning of breakwaters construction) and Part B (during the breakwaters construction). An analysis of the morphological evolution of Cabedelo spit shoreline was also performed: (1) a simple analysis of retreat and accretion rates data with a geographical information system and (2) a more exhaustive analysis were performed using Empirical Orthogonal Functions (EOFs). The Cabedelo spit shoreline erosion occurs mostly on the West and North side, and the accretion mostly occurs in the area protected by the South breakwater. During the breakwater’s construction, the Cabedelo spit shoreline presented high retreat rates, with a mean value greater than 100 m. In terms of spatial variance (EOFs analysis), when the dataset was divided in two parts, the first Principal Component (PC) represents 60.10 % and 89.86 % of the mean squared value of the data, for Part A and Part B, respectively. As proved, the breakwaters would tend to stabilize the coastline leading to a higher first PC value after breakwaters construction (Part B).     

Human influence over 150 years of coastal evolution in the Volturno delta system (southern Italy)

This paper focused on the past shoreline change rates along the coastal plain of the Volturno River, in southern Italy, western Mediterranean. A wide database comprising historical maps, aerial photographs, topographic sheets, bathymetric data was used to extract the spatial and temporal information of the coastlines at seven time points. Coastline displacement was calculated for two successive time points and relative surface variation (accretion and erosion) was estimated as well as minimum and maximum accretion/erosion linear values and rates. The surface variation analysis has revealed that the studied coast can be considered homogeneous since the 1970s, whereas it exhibits a variety of shoreline evolutionary trends after that time period. Timing and causes of trends and rates of variation were detected. Based on the estimated shoreline change rates, an appropriate morhodynamic one-line model was applied to predict evolutionary scenarios also in presence of port and defence works. The results obtained strongly emphasize that a successful coastal management requires a constant monitoring of the human-induced changes to account for the variability of rates over time.     

Assessment of shoreline changes over the Northern Tamil Nadu Coast,South India using WebGIS techniques

Coastal zone is often vulnerable to natural hazards such as cyclones, storm surges, tsunamis, erosion, accretion, and coastal flooding; and man-made hazards like ports, jetties, seawalls, breakwaters, and groins. These disasters are frequently affecting the shorelines, beaches, and headlands that lead to loss of human life, properties, and natural ecosystems. To prevent further loss in the coastal zone and to conserve the existing natural resources, it is important to map and monitor vulnerable shorelines at frequent time intervals. The current study, conducted over the Northern TN (Tamil Nadu) coast of India, is highly dynamic due to its nature of coast and shoreline changes. The temporal remote sensing data and Survey of India (SOI) topographic maps over the period of 40 years (i.e., 1976–2016) were used to capture shorelines and then the erosion and accretion from the shorelines were assessed by performing the overlay analysis. These geospatial datasets of shorelines were incorporated into WebGIS platform, which was developed and demonstrated using open source software. This latest WebGIS technology allows users to store a large volume of geospatial datasets in the server and access through internet with a web browser that lead to manipulation, visualization, interaction, and dissemination. The results revealed that there were 61 layers, which include district-wise shorelines, erosion, and accretion for Tiruvallur, Chennai, and Kanchipuram. These geospatial datasets in WebGIS showed that the dynamism on the morphological structure of the shorelines, over the Northern TN lost 1,925 ha and gained 1,578 ha due to erosion and accretion, respectively. It is reported that in this study spatial reduction in the coastline may be attributed to natural and anthropogenic activities. However, this research will be useful for various stakeholders, including coastal management authorities to formulate policies and to regulate the coastal development activities.     

Analyses on phenological and morphological variations of mangrove forests along the southwest coast of Bangladesh

Drastic changes in river discharge and salinity levels are threatening the phenology and morphology of the coastal mangrove forests of the Sundarbans of Bangladesh. We have used AVHRR GIMMS (1985–2006) and MODIS (2005–2010) satellite Normalized Difference Vegetation Index (NDVI) data to identify the temporal variation of the phenology of the mangroves. Linear interpolation and Fourier-based adjustment were applied to remove noise from the NDVI time series. Then linear regression analysis on a single area (8 km ? 8 km) and a composite of 36 areas for three NDVI statistics the annual minimum, annual average, and annual maximum were performed--over the time periods 1985–1990, 1990–2000, 2000–2006 and 2005–2010 to identify possible functional changes in NDVI time series around the Sundarbans. Furthermore, we used fourteen LANDSAT images spanning the period 1989–2010 to estimate the spatiotemporal rate of shoreline changes over the three time periods 1989–2000, 2000–2006, and 2006–2010. A decreasing trend in the annual minimum NDVI was observed in most of the areas of the Sundarbans for the period 1990–2000. During the years 2000–2006, the trends of the three NDVI statistics became significantly positive, indicating an improvement of the mangrove phenology. In the period 2005–2010, a decreasing trend in all the NDVI variables was again dominant. The coast underwent rapid erosion from 1989–2000 and 2006–2010. However, the rate substantially declined between 2000 and 2006, when accretion was dominant. The advent of the upstream Farakka barrage caused a significant reduction in the Ganges-Gorai River discharge and increased the salinity in and around the Sundarbans. Our study concludes that this may be responsible for the degradation of mangrove phenology and accelerated erosion in the earlier and recent periods. In the interim, 2000–2006, improved river discharge and salinity levels due to the Ganges water sharing agreement (1996) and dredging of the Gorai River bed (1998–1999) enhanced the mangrove phenology and helped the coast to gain land.     

Assessing vulnerability to sea-level rise using a coastal sensitivity index: a case study from southeast Australia

Many of the world’s coasts appear vulnerable to the impacts of climate change and sea-level rise. This paper assesses the application of a coastal sensitivity index (CSI) to the Illawarra coast, a relatively well-studied shoreline in southeast Australia. Nine variables, namely (a) rock type, (b) coastal slope (c) geomorphology (d) barrier type (e) shoreline exposure (f) shoreline change (g) relative sea-level rise (h) mean wave height and (j) mean tide range, were adopted in calculation of the CSI (the square root of the product of the ranked variables divided by the number of variables). Two new variables, shoreline exposure and barrier type, were trialled in this analysis and the extent to which these increased the discriminatory power of the index was assessed. Four iterations of the CSI were undertaken using different combinations of ranked variables for each of 105 cells in a grid template, and the index values derived were displayed based on quartiles, indicating sections of coast with very high, high, moderate and low sensitivity. Increasing the number of variables increased the discriminatory power of the index, but the broad pattern and the rank order were very similar for each of the iterations. Rocky and cliffed sections of coast are least sensitive whereas sandy beaches backed by low plains or dunes record the highest sensitivity. It is difficult to determine shoreline change on this coast, because individual storms result in substantial erosion of beaches, but there are prolonged subsequent periods of accretion and foredune rebuilding. Consequently this variable is not a good indicator of shoreline sensitivity and the index is unlikely to provide a clear basis for forecasting future recession of beaches. The results of this study provide a framework for coastal managers and planners to prioritize efforts to enhance the resilience or consider adaptation measures in the coastal zone within a study region. Sensitivity of the coast if considered in conjunction with other social factors may be an input into broader assessments of the overall vulnerability of coasts and their communities.     

Recent shoreline evolution and beach erosion along the central Adriatic coast of Italy: the case of Molise region

A study on the modern dynamics and shoreline changes from 1954 to 2014 of the Molise coast (central Adriatic Sea) has been carried out. Short to long-term shoreline changes and associated surface area variations have been assessed in GIS environment for the study coast, subdivided in nine coastal segments (S1-S9), by using 100-m regularly spaced transects. In addition, the possible influence of natural and anthropogenic factors, especially of climatic variability and engineered shoreline defense structures, has been investigated. The Molise coast has experienced notable long-term erosion (period 1054-2014) that caused an overall coastal land loss of approximately 940,000 m². Erosion was, yet, limited to coastal segments S1 and S7, nearest to the mouths of major rivers, namely Trigno and Biferno, while the major part of the study coast has remained essentially stable or even advanced. Increased shoreline protection by defense structures has generally favoured shoreline stability and frequently generated shoreline advance, except for segments S1 and S7. Observed differences in shoreline change rates over time at the decadal to interannual scale, have not find a response in the analysis of available data on meteo-marine conditions of the Molise coast and climate variability indices, pointing out the need to improve knowledge on meteomarine conditions and on climatic variability forcing of the study area. From 2004 to 2014, the Molise shoreline remained essentially stable. Nonetheless, most recent shoreline changes (period 2011-2014) and modern shoreline dynamics indicate that erosion has become more widespread, involving at least part of segments S2-S3 and S8-S9, located south of the river mouth segments. The localized long-term shoreline retreat and most recent shoreline erosion appear to be primarily related to channel adjustments of the Biferno and Trigno rivers that occurred since the 1950s under the control of human interventions on the rivers, especially the construction respectively of a dam and a check dam along their lower courses, that trap of most of their solid load, affecting so adversely the sediment budget of the river mouths areas and adjacent beaches. Overall data acquired on the recent shoreline evolution and modern shoreline dynamics of the Molise coast and on related causal factors provide a good basic knowledge for regional coastal management purposes, and for further scientific purposes. Particularly, they suggest the opportunity to deepen a number of aspects such as the relationship between the coast and river catchments feeding it, the possible influences on the Molise shoreline dynamics of the neighbouring coasts, the efficiency/obsolescence of defense structures and the present-day vulnerability to coastal erosion of the Molise coast.     

Detached breakwaters’ effects on a microtidal Mediterranean Coast, case of the Hammam-Lif littoral (North-East of Tunisia)

The Hammam Lif shoreline, which is part of the Gulf of Tunis (North-East of Tunisia), suffered from a dramatic erosion event during a storm in 1981. Therefore, eight successive and detached breakwaters were built to protect it. The effect of these protection works on the evolution of this coastline is assessed using aerial photographs geo-referenced by digital photogrammetric methods. Results show that a general accretion has developed behind the detached breakwaters, with the formation of seven tombolos and one salient. The response of the coastline depends on the characteristics of the protective works (length, distance to coast, and spacing). Detached breakwaters which are short, far from the coastline and distant from each other, give rise to very small tombolos or salients. On the other hand, longer breakwaters which are near the coastline and closely spaced, give rise to more developed tombolos, showing that these structures are the most efficient.     

Determination of set-back lines on eroding coasts. Example of the beaches of the Gulf of Lions (French Mediterranean Coast)

The study presented here describes a method for defining set-back lines along eroding coasts. The method (a mathematical model) combines the long-term shoreline retreat trend with short-term shoreline erosion (during storms). Simulations are carried out for 2030 and compared with the beach width to determine whether the shoreline is likely to shift onshore. The mathematical model is applied to the Frontignan and Carnon beaches (south of France). Both sites possess hard engineering coastal structures and downdrift erosion on the natural beaches. The set-back lines indicate that beaches with groynes are generally wide enough to resist shoreline retreat, while the downdrift “natural” beaches are not. We discuss the possible utilisation of set-back line estimations.     

Integrated shoreline management and tourism development on the cross-border World Heritage Site: A case study from the Curonian spit (Lithuania/Russia)

The varied and very dynamic landscape with a high biological diversity is a distinctive feature of the Curonian spit at the regional scale. Throughout the 20th century the main morphodynamic trend in the littoral of the Curonian spit was shoreline grading on the lagoon side, whereas on the marine side the increasing erosion at the foot of the spit, and increasing accretion at the head of the spit prevailed. The results of a discriminant analysis (Wilkes’ λ = 0.001626 and F = 29.267 when p < 0.001) show that sites with prevailing erosion, accretion and sediment input from the drifting dunes form regular inter-related spatial structures in the littoral with distinctive resulting discontinuities of the sediment drift along the lagoon coast. Dune littoral cells are characterized by Aeolian sediment input and distribution ‘down-drift’, (usually northwards) from the source. The most likely changes in the current development trends of the lagoon shore zone of the Curonian spit are related to expected climate changes and further slowing down of the dune drift. The probability of storms and ice-drift events, and their impact on coasts is expected to increase as a result of climate change. The dune advance will gradually slow down, and with it, the sand input to the coastal zone will decline. In this paper, we define integrated shoreline management as a system of long-term shoreline management measures, which is based on a littoral cell approach and aimed at harmonizing human activity in the coastal zone with the natural development of the shoreline. We propose an integrated management program for the lagoon shoreline of the Curonian spit, which is site-specific for each littoral cell as a coastal management unit. Drifting dunes and seaside beaches are the natural amenities, which are best known and best appreciated on the Curonian spit by 49% of the respondents representing the total Lithuanian population. A responsible tourism development should be considered as the key means for proper appreciation of the drifting dunes and natural coasts by society, which means to acknowledge and cherish the aesthetic and conservation values of dune and coastal landscapes of the Curonian spit as a World Heritage Site. There are at least two pre-conditions for this: (1) to provide visitors with sufficient information about diverse values and functions of the Curonian dunes and coasts within a broader regional and global heritage conservation context; (2) to enable tourists to enjoy the most impressive dune and coastal landscapes at close range. In this paper we propose to encourage active dune tourism, to reintroduce grazing into the Curonian dune areas, to restore and to preserve the most impressive landscapes of the highest white drifting dunes by bringing the blown out sand from the leeward foot of the dunes back to the crest artificially.     

Confronting coastal morphodynamics with counter-erosion engineering: the emblematic case of Wissant Bay,Dover Strait

Wissant Bay is a picturesque and highly frequented French coastal resort comprising beaches, dunes, marshes, and bold capes facing the Dover Strait. Situated at the southern approaches to the North Sea, the 8 km-long bay has, arguably, the most rapidly eroding shoreline in metropolitan France. Retreat has largely affected much of the bay shoreline west of Wissant town, with parts of this sector having lost up to 250 m in the last 50 years, whereas a much smaller sector east of the town is a zone of accretion. Various dune, beach and nearshore morphodynamic studies conducted over the last decade have identified chronic sand bleeding from the western sector and longshore transport to the east, within a framework of what appears to be an ongoing shoreline rotation process within a dominant longshore sediment transport cell between the headland of Cape Gris Nez to the west and the bold chalk cliffs of Cape Blanc Nez to the east. Retreat of the narrowing beach-dune barrier poses a threat in the coming years, as there is a likelihood of it being breached by storms. The seawall protecting Wissant town has also been repeatedly damaged since 2000 due to the chronic sand deficit. These changes involve interactions between a nearshore sand bank, a complex macrotidal beach comprising multiple subtidal to intertidal bars and troughs subject to strong longshore sand transport especially during storms, and aeolian dunes. The nearshore bank acts as a dissipater of incident storm wave energy and as a sand source for the multi-barred beaches and dunes, and has been strongly impacted by past massive aggregate extraction. The bank is, in turn, part of a larger system of mobile banks reworked by storms and tidal currents within the framework of a sand circulation system between the eastern English Channel and the southern North Sea. The aim of this work is to confront knowledge acquired on the morphodynamics of the bay with an engineering plan proposed to counter erosion and reestablish shoreline stability. The plan is based essentially on the creation of an ‘equilibrium’ beach profile, capable of withstanding storms, comprising an enlarged upper beach berm, and constructed through beach nourishment from a nearshore source located 20 km east of Wissant Bay. The plan has not been implemented because of cost. Even if it were to be implemented, its efficiency seems very doubtful because the beach profile simulations on which it is based neglect the complex multi-barred morphology and the overwhelming dominant longshore transport over bars during storms. The plan is also geared towards resolving a local problem of erosion that is embedded in the larger and rather complex spatiotemporal morphodynamics and sediment transport mechanisms evoked above. Wissant Bay is emblematic of the problems of erosion facing many communes in France, and elsewhere. The fight against shoreline erosion generally starts with the commonly insurmountable hurdle of fund-raising for costly engineering proposals that are not always based on a clear grasp of the embedded scales of change affecting the coast.     

Experimental study on dynamic equilibrium of headland-bay beaches

A dynamic equilibrium bay (DEB) is an embayment with continuous sediment supply and its shoreline planform can remain stable over a long period of time without erosion or accretion. For coastal conservation of sandy headland-bay beaches (HBB), the concept of using a static equilibrium bay (SEB) is well known, but that for DEB has received little attention. Moreover, an empirical equation for the stability of a DEB is not yet available. Experiments on DEB shape that aim to derive new coefficients in the parabolic bay shape equation (PBSE) for DEB are now being conducted in the laboratory. The work commences from an initial artificial HBB in static equilibrium with sediment supply source from the lee of an upcoast headland. A final equilibrium planform is obtained for the condition with a specific wave obliquity and sediment supply rate until no further shoreline change is found. In order to fit the PBSE for a DEB, a new parameter called SSR (sediment supply ratio) that represents the ratio of sediment supply rate from the source and the potential longshore sediment transport rate is introduced to quantify the balance of sediment to the bay. Alternative C coefficients in the PBSE for DEB, which include wave obliquity and the SSR, are then calculated. These new coefficients for DEB can now be used to evaluate the influence of sediment supply from a riverine source on a DEB and to classify its equilibrium status for planning sediment management strategies in coastal conservation.     

Seaward coastal defence: limitations and possibilities

In The Netherlands shoreline retreat is actively counteracted, mostly by means of beach nourishment in which some allowance is made for natural fluctuations. For some parts of the coast, however, a more active socalled ‘seaward coastal defence strategy’ might be more profitable. This applies to coasts with a small dune ridge subject to severe erosion. According to this strategy the morphological system is influenced in such a way that erosion is prevented, which will result in a stable or even an accretion coastline. The effectiveness of the seaward coastal defence strategy has to be compared with maintenance by beach nourishment. The effects on the morphological system, the environment and other interests must also be analysed. Several seaward solutions are possible. In order to gain more insight into the behaviour of these solutions, comparative pilot studies have been executed for the most vulnerable locations. This paper gives an overview of the main conclusions of the pilot studies in comparison with sand nourishment, the main coastal defence measure.     

Morphological cells in the Ragusa littoral (Sicily, Italy)

Geomorphologic information, topographic maps (dated 1967), aerial photographs (dated 1999 and 2008), and spatial analysis procedures were used to investigate a 90 km long coastal sector in South Sicily (Italy). Information was obtained on coastal erosion/accretion areas, general sediment circulation pattern and littoral cell distribution. Human-made structures and natural headlands constituted important artificial limits dividing littoral in morphological cells. Ports and harbours were observed at Scoglitti, Punta Secca, Marina di Ragusa, Donnalucata and Pozzallo. Most of them worked as “transit” limits which interrupted predominant, eastward directed sedimentary transport, this way generating accretion in updrift (west) side of mentioned structures and erosion in downdrift (east) side. During the 1967–2008 period, about 62,000 m² and 42,000 m² of beach surface were respectively formed updrift of Scoglitti and Donnalucata ports. The construction of Pozzallo port gave rise to the formation of a “convergent” limit which favoured large accretion (94,000 m²) east of port structure. Most important natural structures were observed at Punta Zafaglione, P. Braccetto and Cava d’Aliga. The knowledge of littoral cell distribution acquires a great importance for appropriate management of coastal erosion processes which may be mitigated installing by-passing systems in ports and harbours and carrying out nourishment works in eroding areas, often located downdrift of ports and harbours (when these structures work as transit limits) and in central part of littoral cells (when these structures work as convergent limits).